Monday, 1 September 2014

Postcard: Sicilia

Postcard: Sicilia

Grapevines. Olive trees. Brown hills. Blue skies. The Med.

That about sums up the vista on the southern Sicily coast this week, where the relentlessly warm 'bluebird' days roll on as if they'll never end.

It's a contrasting landscape, ultimately, with the arid yellow, rolling collina dotted with almost unrealistic lurid green vegetation and set against a backdrop of brilliant, sparkling blue sea.

There's an oddity about where I'm staying, Planeta Estate's La Foresteria at Menfi, too, as the wines are rather bluntly commercial and samey for such a luxury resort (but more on that later).

What isn't hard to see is the beauty of this parched part of Italy, the experience topped off with beaches that are cleaner and less cluttered by Europe's summer tourist masses than so many other Mediterranean beachside locations (largely Italians here it seems).

Equally enticing is the local cuisine - heavy with clams, swordfish and sardine, the generosity and simplicity utterly addictive.

As for local wines - well, Marsala is not all that far from here and Pantelleria is a ferry ride away, marking sweet wines the most interesting in this part of Sicily. Nero d'Avola is what's being planted locally though, as the world's thirst for rich, good value, full flavoured Sicilian Nero only increases.

Again, the contradiction though- Nero doesn't work at all with local fish-heavy food, making it just as contradictory as the sight I saw yesterday - a farmer in his clapped out tractor, holding up a long line of traffic heading to the beach...

Monday, 25 August 2014

Postcard: London

Postcard: London

While the English summer has finished a few weeks early this year (damn), it is a pleasure to be back in the UK. 

Yesterday I fought the throngs of kids drinking long necks of Stella (en route to the Notting Hill carnival) to have lunch at the fabulous Launceston Place in Kensington, where the food and service was exemplary, everything capped off by a killer cheese trolley. 

I love cheese trolleys.

For drinks we had the linear and super fresh - if boringly neutral - Gusbourne Estate Blanc de Blancs 2009, which could really have done with more lees/barrel work to build enough weight to compete with that sky-high natural acidity.

Following that was a delicious Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee 2010, which was just a silky mouthful of red fruit deliciousness - near perfect for a village level Vosne. I could have smashed a bottle (or three) on my own.

Today I'm off to the beautiful Val d'Elsa for 4 days of Tuscan sunshine *whistles it's a hard knock life*.

Thursday, 21 August 2014

Polperro Landaviddy Lane Pinot Noir 2012

Polperro Landaviddy Lane Pinot Noir 2012 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic
13.6%, Diam, $65

Sam Coverdale dropped by yesterday, bringing with him a bag full of new release wines in tow. While the highlights were many (including an excellent canberra Shiraz. Review to come), this Pinot Noir stuck out like a beacon of Mornington Pinot goodness.

Sourced from a SW facing 20 year old vineyard at 160m altitude that yields less than 2t/acre, this is perhaps the most generous of Sam's Pinots, with that delicious Mornington red fruit and redcurrant juiciness on nose and palate that is ultra seductive.

For all that flashiness, however, this is no show pony, with firm acid and a back end is serious indeed, the tannins quite full and ensuring a seriously long finish.

The very model of a Mornington Pinot, without losing structure, this is a mighty fine wine. Detailed too. Big yes.

Source: Tasting
Tasted: August 2014
Drink: 2014-2019+
Score: 18.7/20, 95/100
Would I buy it? Oh yes.

Wednesday, 20 August 2014

Punt Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Punt Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (Yarra Valley, Vic)
13%, Screwcap, $29

A great vintage in the Yarra for Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yet this feels muddled. It smells great, with green olive, black olive tapenade, mint and chocolate, the nose getting riper as it goes along. The varietal definition doesn't translate to the palate though, which looks warmer, riper and softer than expected, the profile just a little broad without the tannins to tighten the finish.

It's going to get better in bottle, but just a bit middling for now.

Source: Sample
Tasted: August 2014
Drink: 2014-2018
Score: 16.5/20, 88/100+
Would I buy it? Not quite.

Tuesday, 19 August 2014

Wine lists - do they need to be local? Or just great?

Rockpool. Is the wine too fancy?

Wine lists - do they need to be local? Or just great?

The Australian wine industry has been alight today, the fires started by a brace of pot-stirring articles decrying the lack of Australian wine on Australian wine lists. 

Interestingly, the instigators were both judges on the Wine List of the Year awards, which undoubtedly gives them an edge of authority about Australian wine lists.

First we had Stu Gregor fuming at the phenomenon of the locavore with a non-local wine list and followed up by Huon Hooke complaining that restaurant wine lists are too trendy

After reading both, I thought that the core theme of these articles is an incredibly important issue - that Australian wine lists often fail to promote Australian wines as well as they could do.

Few would argue that Australian wine could do with more coverage really, particularly given just how strong (or beleaguered, depending on your approach) Aussie wine is.

What Huon's article (in particular) managed to do, however, was alienate some of the top producers who should be celebrated, with the likes of Sami-Odi (superb small volume Barossan reds) and Jamsheed (top Grampians and Yarra whites and reds) named and shamed as 'darlings of the sommeliers, and largely unknown to the public.'

The problem with such a swipe, which came across more as a grumpy snap than a reasoned thought, is that it is counterintuitive to the point of the article itself - celebrating the best in Australian wine on Australian wine lists.

That jab aside, Huon went on to note that some of Australia's best-known names - including the likes of Wolf Blass, Rosemount or Yalumba - fail to make an appearance on most of our top wine lists, while the most obscure oddities from the Jura, Etna or Greece get top billing instead.

The question then is whether such a bias is actually a bad thing? Surely when we go out we want to be challenged? We want to taste the world's most interesting wines and eat the most interesting foods?

Attica restaurant manager Banjo Harris Plane put it more succinctly on twitter:

What was also noted on twitter is that, whilst Huon's article swipes at the perceived imbalance of imports on top wine lists, it also fails to acknowledge an insidious issue that pervades Australian wine lists on the next level down - homogeneity.

Indeed venture beyond the land of hats and somms and you'll discover that the bulk of Australian wine lists are crying out for some diversity (imports or otherwise), with many lists often tied up by large wine companies strangling out anything beyond the aforementioned Rosemount, Wolf Blass or Yalumba.

Conversely, Huon is also right on with another point, noting that you can commonly find reams of old Sauternes and Burgundy on lists, yet comparatively little great old Australian wines beyond verticals of Grange or a very limited pool of Aussie icons (Moss Wood, Hill of Grace et al).

Ultimately, the question to be asked is what we want in wine lists, and I'd argue that we want the very best wines we can get, Australian or not.

By the same token, what these articles are trying to suggest is that there's much from Australia (and NZ) that is 'the best that we can get' and is overlooked simply because it is slightly more mainstream (like NZ Sauv Blanc). 

So what do you think? Is there enough local wine on local lists? Do you want to see more local wines on local lists, or is fine dining your excuse to try something different?

Starvedog Lane Clare Valley Shiraz 2012

Starvedog Lane Clare Valley Shiraz 2012 (Clare Valley, SA)
14%, Screwcap, $20

An entry level $20 Clare Shiraz from an Adelaide Hills maker.

A sadly boring wine too - there's some chocolate eclair oak, plummy fruit and a flash of Clare mint but beyond that not much. By the second day it had started oxidising into flab.

Not quite.

Source: Sample
Tasted: August 2014
Drink: 2014-2017
Score: 15.5/20, 85/100
Would I buy it? No.

Monday, 18 August 2014

Clever imports (and more) from Terroir Selections

Clever imports (and more) from Terroir Selections

While it's been brutally hard for our export focused winemakers, the record strength of our Aussie dollar has been useful for one thing - encouraging an ever expanding smorgasbord of imported goodies.

The following spread comes from Xavier Bizot and Lucy Croser's Terroir Selections portfolio; the depths of which I can only dream about affording...

Sauvia Massi Fitti Trebbiano di Soave 2011 (Veneto, Italy)
100% Trebbiano grown in the Fittà hills.
Who said that Trebbiano can't be sexy? A great battle here between the sour, chalky, phenolic tang of Trebbiano with some of the salty texture of Soave. The Trebb wins on entry, the region through the middle and more Treb to finish. It's long, honey blossom edged and really quite impressive in the sheer concentration. Much to grasp. 18/20, 93/100

Chanson Chablis 2012 (Chablis, Burgundy, France)
All fermented in tank judging by the nose. Carries some of the 'wet clay' 2012 Chablis characters over a simple, acid driven palate that still retains some nice vanilla textural extras, if relies on fruit simplicity. More than reasonable length. A solid expression of Chablis fruit but true to style and variety. 16.5/20, 88/100

Terre á Terre Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Wrattonbully, SA)
Hand-picked, barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc from a close planted vineyard across the road from the Tapanappa Whalebone vineyard.
I've had this several times now and each month it gets better. Pine/passionfruit nose is super expressive, though the fruit is fighting with the oak at present, the palate flush with nectarine cream palate. Finishes much more tight than expected. An expressive and generous number this, but will need more time to integrate. Hold 17.7/20, 92/100+

Domaine Chanson Pere et Fils 'Le Bourgogne' Rouge 2012 (Burgundy, France)
The most new world Chanson Bourgogne yet. Redcurrant nose over a modern, super clean and open palate, presenting a deliciously fleshy and open expression of Pinot (though more Pinot than classic Burgundy). Light and bright palate is all about sweet fruit and less about structure, presenting an approachable and genuinely delightful expression, if not an especially serous one. Seriously impressive drinking Bourgogne nonetheless. 16.8/20, 89/100

Domaine Chanson Pere et Fils Monthélie Rouge 2012 (Monthelie, Burgundy, France)
Produced from a single vineyard sitting alongside premier cru sites.
Closed nose. Red and blackcurrant on a tightly bound palate of red/black fruit. Glacé fruit edges, supported by fine tannins. Closed but has promise. Rather impressive shape for the price and appellation, if just a little muddy to finish. 17/20, 90/100+

Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot 2012 (Fleurieu Peninsula, SA)
All it needs is time...

Once the surprisingly sweet toasty oak integrates here this is going to be superb. It's easily the biggest boned Tapa Pinot yet, but that weight and volume enhances the appeal. The flesh and swagger underneath suggests plenty of greatness to come. 18/20, 93/100++

Ceretto Barbaresco 2011 (Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy)
Not my favourite vintage in Barbaresco (stop start with heat and rain) and this looks just a little confected. Still solidly authentic, the mid weight and pretty palate finished off with open, sticky tannins. A solid Barbaresco hit but it lacks the bite for stardom. In the same breath, however, every taste of this suggests pure class. Good, if in the same epic league as previous vintages. 17.5/20, 91/100

Domaine de la Grange des Pères Vin de Pays l'Herault Rouge 2011 (Languedoc, France)
40/40/20 Syrah, Mourvedre and Cabernet Sauvignon and some Counoise. Wild fermented, long macerations and up to 24 months in barrel.
Magnificent - and so clean for Grange Des Pères! A huge nose of purple fruit, garrique, fennel and plums that fills your nose and your brain with a richness of fruit and flavour. So plush and evocative! The palate is incredibly rich, with layer after layer of purple fruit, prune, steak, plum and a background clove and stalk intrusion. The length - extraordinary, the tannins a fine underline. This is delicious wine of absolute power, texture and richness. I want some of this... 19/20, 96/100

Domaine Mas Jullien Côteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac 2011 (Languedoc, France)
Syrah, Carignan and Mourvedre.
After the plush purity of the Grange des Pères this looks wild, fatty and a fraction hard, the green olive and gamey edges very tertiary and just a little too forward and stemmy. There's character and flavour here but it just doesn't stack up in this lineup. 16.5/20, 88/100

Sunday, 17 August 2014

Top of the tree Clare Riesling: Jim Barry Lodge Hill Riesling 2014

Jim Barry Lodge Hill Riesling 2014 (Clare Valley, SA)
11.7%, Screwcap, $22

It's been a rough week. After a rough week what you really want is something nice to drink. Not thought provoking. Not weird. Just genuinely, utterly delicious.

This Riesling fits that description nicely. It's a beautiful, refreshing, long and shapely Clare Valley Riesling, the acid soft (all natural) but prominent, the lime and lemongrass fruit quite round yet without losing freshness. Perhaps a little more approachable at this stage than the 2013, with just a dash of lemonade through the middle. Balance looks better though.

Not a profound wine, but so perfectly shaped that every sip is a refreshing pleasure. Such a great advertisement for the joys of Clare Riesling.

Source: Sample
Tasted: August 2014
Drink: 2014-2030
Score: 18.5/20, 94/100
Would I buy it? In a heartbeat. I could drink cases of this over summer. Especially at that price.
Buy online: Jim Barry website

Tuesday, 12 August 2014

Vale Jeremy Pringle

There's little joy in the glass tonight, for today we lost a friend. Jeremy Pringle, fellow blogger (; writer; 'dilettante wine punk' and mate was sadly, suddenly, found dead in his home.


JP and I first connected a little over five years ago. Back then I had just started this blog, and Jeremy and I were just each others fans. He would comment on my post, I'd ask him why he didn't start his own blog, and we'd all nod sagely about the joy of wine.

On a whim, JP sent me a bottle of his favourite wine - the 2006 Curly Flat Pinot. I didn't ask for it, he just sent it because he loved it. No desires, just keen to share the vinous joy. In turn, that started a chain of bottle swaps, often betting over the AFL (Jeremy was a Brisbane Lions fan) and any excuse really to trade wines we loved.

It didn't take long before Jeremy had his blog (I won't take any credit - a sheer weight of others pushed him to do it) and quickly we were more than just fans and now comrades - both pushing out the wine blogger boat and rowing furiously against the tide of 'old media' sniping.

THAT table. JP in picture, boor to my left...
That camaraderie was cemented at a wine media trip about three years ago, when Jeremy and I found ourselves on a table with one of the most obnoxious wine boors of the wine industry - both trying to defend the notions of what a good and bad wine entails in the face of someone who believed they knew everything. 

Brothers in arms, fighting the good fight.

The real joy, though, came from disagreeing with Jeremy - he loved a spirited discussion, had strong opinions that he didn't mind voicing and was willing to respect well formed responses. Not seeing eye-to-eye with Jeremy meant an enjoyable debate and I liked the stirring (even if he could be frustrating).

In more recent times, I think Jeremy overtook myself in the wine writing game, turning his skill of language, philosophy (he marked university papers for a while there) and music (he also taught a little music on the side) into well crafted prose both for his own website and in more traditional, long form print media articles.

Blog traffic was on the up, his writing skills were fully appreciated. He was kicking goals and on the rise.

For all that success, sadly Jeremy and I share one thing in common that I wish we didn't - we've both struggled with our personal demons. I was lucky to slay most of mine some years ago, yet JP had been dogged by the darkness only recently - to the point where he had withdrawn from social media and put his blog on hiatus in a bid to right everything again.

I conversed, in a staccato of overly short DMs, with JP only a week or so ago. He seemed clear in thought, acknowledging that there was a light at the end of the tunnel and keen to not let this dog-eat-dog wine industry (it's vicious. With the worst often coming from wine writers themselves) take him down. I only wish I had of pushed more and eked more out of him at the time.

Regrets, I've had a few...

Regardless, enough dark thoughts, let us praise the man who is gone. Gone, not forgotten, and with much in his wake.

See you mate.

Sunday, 10 August 2014

Bargain Barossa Blend: Veronique Old Vine Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2012

Veronique Old Vine Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2012 (Barossa, SA)
14%, Screwcap, $22

This is a bargain. Little wonder when you realise that the ever-restless (and clever) Dom Torzi has a hand in this wine's production, making the wine and helping to source fruit.

There's a nice story behind this label actually, with the Veronique wines originally going to be the product of Peter and Vicki Manning's property at Mt Mckenzie. Sadly their site was way too hard for grapes, so they enlisted their neighbour - Dom - to help out sourcing grapes.

A blend of old vine Angaston Grenache, Nurioopta Mataro and Moppa Shiraz, with the Mataro and Grenache cofermented in an open vat, basket pressed to barrel racked off lees and finished in seasoned oak. The Shiraz saw a little more new oak as Dom thought it needed it.

The end result is a delicious, gently ripe style that is black and red fruited with excellent concentration. There is some of the brambly black inkiness seen in the other Veronique wines (they're seriously thick and viscous) but with that red fruit prettiness on top. Generous, mouthfilling Barossan red that is all about fruit roundness and concentration without oak or excessive extract in the way.

Delicious really, especially when you can pick it up for close to $17 retail.

Source: Sample
Tasted: August 2014
Drink: 2012-2020
Score: 18/20, 93/100
Would I buy it? I'd share a bottle and probably drink most of it. A cold Friday night wine for sure (and very well priced).
Buy online: Dan Murphys, Veronique website 

A Condrieu that rocks: Yves Cuilleron Le Petite Cote Condrieu 2012

Yves Cuilleron La Petite Cote Condrieu 2012 (Condrieu, Northern Rhone)
13%, Cork,  $90

There is Viognier and then there is Cuilleron Condrieu...

This may as well be a different variety from your typical Aussie Viognier really, with this managing to balance phenolic drive, acidity and fruit power, the result bloody delicious. Even more amazing given that this was wild fermented and matured in barrique for nine months, going through full malo - lots of winemaking 'work' but no hint of the flab you'd normally expect, even for Condrieu.

There's a dash of the Goulburn Valley 3 Fruits in Syrup juiciness on the nose, yet it just gets tighter from there, the palate driven by phenolic grip and acidity, that fruit expression kept in check perfectly.

If anything this needs another year for the palate to fill out a little. But otherwise, how good is this? Bloody good.

Source: Tasting
Tasted: August 2014
Drink: 2014-2020+
Score: 18.1/20, 93/100+
Would I buy it? Oh yes. I can't afford it but I'd like to drink it.
Buy online: France-Soir selections,

Saturday, 9 August 2014

Printhie MCC Riesling 2013

Printhie MCC Riesling 2013 (Orange, NSW)
11%, Screwcap, $26

I think there is scope for Riesling in Orange, with this very cool part of the world showing a little Riesling potential.

The only stumbling block to the Orange Riesling train is how residual sugar is handled - this wine, for example is just a little too sweet, a little too candied to really be great. A close run thing though as I imagine it would be tart without the sweetness (this comes from a vineyard over 1000m, with no shortage of razor sharp acidity).

Anyway, what this does have is a clean and quite pure form, the buzzy, grapefruit juice acidity giving shape to the apricot and candy floss tinged palate palate here, reinforcing what is a quite long and shapely wine.

You'd drink this, without the wine really hitting the high notes - it feels like acid and sweetness aren't quite matched up enough to be greater than that.

Source: Sample
Tasted: July 2014
Drink: 2014-2020
Score: 17.5/20, 91/100
Would I buy it? Not quite. But I'd enjoy a glass or two.
By online: Printhie website

Friday, 8 August 2014

Tenefeate Creek Merlot 2009

Tenefeate Creek Merlot 2009 (Adelaide, SA)
14.5% Screwcap, $25

Source from up near One Tree Hill on the border between the Barossa, Adelaide Plains and Adelaide Hills. Quite a history of winemaking in that part of the world, though with suburbia knocking on the doorstep it might not stay as vineyard land forever.

This was basket pressed and spent 18 months in seasoned oak.

Definitely some vintage challenges here - it's so chunky you can carve it. Full and slightly stewed, the fruit here is a little faded and replaced largely by oak tannins. Has concentration and plenty of flavour, but ultimately a little hard edged with blunt added acid and overwrought by oak.

Not quite.

Source: Sample
Tasted: July 2014
Drink: 2014-2020
Score: 15.8/20, 86/100
Would I buy it? No.
Buy online: Tenefeate Creek website

Xabregas Mount Barker Cabernet 2011

Xabregas Mount Barker Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (Mount Barker, WA)
14.5% $22

I like Mt Barker Cabernet. Often more structural and entertaining than Shiraz, though can be a bit minty. This is a pretty classic example too.

A flick of mint and just a little vegetation over archetypal blackcurrant. Palate is quite juicy after the nose. Sweet cocoa powder oak and some dark bitter tannins. Really quite substantial, gritty coffee ground tannins a highlight, finishing sweetly full.

Plenty to grab hold of here. Well priced too.

Source: Sample
Tasted: July 2014
Drink: 2014-2024
Score: 17.5/20, 91/100
Would I buy it? Share a bottle.
Buy online: Wine Selectors, Wine Society

Thursday, 7 August 2014

World class sweet wine from Marlborough: Framingham F-Series Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2013

Framingham F-Series Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2013 (Marlborough, NZ)
6.5%, Screwcap, $100 375ml

I've heard much about the aromatics made by Andrew Hedley at Framingham over the past few years yet, aside from the odd off-dry 'Select Riesling', I've never had a good exploration of the range.

Thankfully I managed to sort that out on Monday, with Andrew pouring all his wines at the mega 3 Winos tasting. While it seems almost cliched to be most wooed by the sweetest wine in the lineup, there is only one way to describe this wine - and that's sensational.

Produced from 100% botrytised Riesling grapes picked at 42 brix and fermented in stainless steel tanks, this is about as close to a southern hemisphere TBA as I've ever tasted, the residual sugar an astonishing 320g/L.

What sets this Riesling - which Andrew proudly calls 'just a mental wine' - apart is that, despite the ridiculous sweetness, it never feels heavy - sure the viscosity of all that rich, uber sweet nectar makes this almost gelatinous in texture, but the acid is still there,.

It smells and tastes of sweet honeysuckle, guava and tropical fruit - sweetness at every turn. The kicker, however is the length, with the pulsating, thickly tropical fruit going and going, the finish lingering for longer than just about any wine I can think of, even if it is a slightly simple sweetness.

While the somewhat less sweet Auslese Riesling may be the more drinkable wine in the lineup, this TBA deserves to be celebrated - it's astonishingly good.

Source: Tasting
Tasted: August 2014
Drink: 2014-2025+
Score: 19/20, 96/100
Would I buy it? Yes. But not sure how much I could actually drink of this. A glass is plenty.
Buy online: Shop for Wine, Framingham website

Wednesday, 6 August 2014

De Bortoli Vinoque Shiraz 2012

De Bortoli Vinoque Shiraz 2012 (Heathcote, Vic)
14.5%, Screwcap, $18

I'm still waiting for De Borts' Heathcote penny to drop.

Gummy, confected red blackberry fruit with massaged clay oak and a light finish. $15 wine, no more, no less - utterly short and light on. Just not quite enough.

Source: Sample
Tasted: July 2014
Drink; 2014-2017
Score: 15.8/20 86/100
Would I buy it? No.
Buy online: De Bortoli website

Grant Burge Balthasar Shiraz 2009

Grant Burge Balthasar Shiraz 2009 (Eden Valley, SA)
14.5%, Cork, $35

The vintage may say 2009 but this a throwback wine - built 90s style, with the rich, ultra-toasty oak that reminds me simply of the 1998 vintage (where new oak was the only way).

Thickly set and oak thick, this smells ripe - 2009 ripe - with cocoa, mint and chocolate cream. That lusciousness is pretty attractive all said and done, even though wine dominates nose, palate and finish and there is some nice blue and blackberry fruit underneath.

Not without charm and will please many.

Source: Sample
Tasted: July 2014
Drink: 2014-2024+
Score: 17.5/20, 91/100
Would I buy it? Not quite. But this has a place.
Buy online: Grant Burge website

Exploring what Mudgee can do: Eloquesta Shiraz Petit Verdot 2011

Eloquesta Shiraz Petit Verdot 2011 (Mudgee, NSW)
14.5%, Screwcap, $32

Here's another charismatic wine from Stuart Olsen, this time a blend of whole bunch Shiraz and Petit Verdot.

Actually, there seems to be a little fiddling happening with Petit Verdot of late, as I tried another intriguing PV from Alex Retief only yesterday.

Here we see the full kitchen sink of 'neo-revivalist' winemaking tinkery at work, with the handpicked grapes foot trodden with whole bunches included in the blend, the wine wild fermented, hand plunged and aged in French, Russian and Hungarian oak for 18 months with no racking.

Great to see someone is 'having a go' in Mudgee, and this looks happily alive too.

Bright maroon purple colour, the nose here is wild with whole bunch pepper, prosciutto and purple fruit, which follows onto a quite generous and luscious palate that carries much more flesh than the nose, the sappy tannins contrasting that purple fruit before finishing with an almost peacock tail like lift.

There's some of that smudgey Mudgee grittiness here, which takes the sweet edge off and makes for a quite tertiary, ultra spicy, style yet still with intrigue, weight and complexity.

This is unconventional and polarising, the nose particularly so, but the quality is sound. Big yes and a round of applause for really exploring what Mudgee can do.

Source: Sample
Tasted: August 2014
Drink: 2014-2024+
Score: 18/20, 93/100
Would I buy it? A few glasses would about do me. It's just a bit wild for much more, but the style would keep me entertained.
Buy online: Eloquesta website

Tuesday, 5 August 2014

A new star producer from Beechworth : Domenica & Two Cells

A new star producer from Beechworth : Domenica & Two Cells

I was wandering around the huge 3 Winos tasting today and spotted a name that rang a bell in the back of my mind - Domenica. 

Domenica is the label of Beechworth's Peter Graham, ex-Giaconda assistant winemaker (of 13 years) and also joint partner with Rick Kinzbrunner and Michel Chapoutier in the Ergo Sum vineyard project.

In 2012, Peter bought out Rick and Michel to claim the 20 year old Ergo Sum (nee Nantua) vineyard for himself, releasing the wines under the Domenica label.

Given the history of the wines produced from this vineyard (including the famous Nantua Roussanne blends and the Giaconda Nebbiolo), it is of little surprise that the Domenica wines are immediately impressive. Yet that is doing the quality a disservice - these are seriously stylish, cool-climate wines of texture and grace, all at a serious discount to Giaconda.

Part of the reason why these are so successful is that plenty of the 'model' Giaconda winemaking style has been brought over too. Think multi-batch wild ferments, careful (and occasionally extended) barrel ferment and maturation, long pre and post ferment maceration for the reds and whole bunch pressing/oxidative winemaking for the whites.

With such a combination of site and thoughtful winemaking, it's of little wonder that these Domenica wines have such consistent weight, texture and acidity.

But I digress...

What's even more satisfying is that Peter is a genuinely affable and honest winemaker/producer, more than happy to critique his own wines in the bottle. I dig that.

On show today was the rich and almost too full 2012 Domenica Chardonnay, which had more than a few Giaconda pangs, plus the wonderfully textural 2012 Domenica Roussanne Marsanne, which was a wonderful reminder of just how delicious the old Nantua blends were.

The stars of the range, however, was both the 2011 Domenica Shiraz and the cheaper 'Two Cells' Shiraz. The difference between these two wines? Just a few classification decisions, with the best barriques going under the $40 Domenica label and the rest to the $25 Two Cells.

Current vintage of both was 2011 and even in this light and tricky year the wines looked svelte and stylish, the Domenica an ultra long, sophisticated and fragrant number driven by acid and a cavalcade of pepper and spice (plenty of whole bunch in the blend methinks), the Two Cells richer and rounder (but still ultra-stylish). A quick taste of the 2012 Two Cells Shiraz revealed a supremely tannic, long and mouthfilling red with Grampians-esque ripeness, yet the perfume and rocky acidity of Beechworth, pointing to superstardom for the 2012 Domenica Shiraz...

Demand, apparently, is strong, and given the price versus the quality on offer, it's little wonder. I'd buy them in a heartbeat.

Monday, 4 August 2014

Ferngrove Cossack Riesling 2013

Ferngrove Cossack Riesling 2013 (Great Southern, WA)
12.5%, Screwcap, $23

That this is just $23 is almost criminal. Australian Riesling is ridiculously good value.

This has an Initial big hit of free sulphur, which blows off to reveal grapefruit and lime purity - really good clarity here. It's just a fraction forward with the first whisps of terpene filtering in, but still a lovely fragrant and juicy number. Underneath the palate looks dry, clean and direct, medium length and with a tasty hit of Frankland River ginger.

Perhaps just a little forward this vintage, but still pure Riesling juiciness and a real sense of refreshment. Good stuff.

Source: Sample
Tasted: July 2014
Drink: 2014-2024
Score: 18/20, 93/100
Would I buy it? I'd smash a half bottle of this on a warm evening no probs. So yes.
Buy online: Cracka Wines, Ferngrove website