Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008
Screwcap, $25

There is something comforting about the Cape Mentelle label. It might be because of the consistency of the wines, the classic, largely unchanged (over the years) label or just sheer familiarity. Whatever it is, the wines are always consistently top shelf, if prone to some vintage vagaries, and this wine is the most consistent of the lot.

This comes from a warmer year in Margaret River, though you’d never know judging by this. Its bright green watery yellow in colour, opening with a nose of citrus, a little grassy herbaceousness and some riper, mellow characters that I think comes from some barrel work. The nose is actually quite subdued – its going to need some patience to show the real herbaceous delineation that I find a memorable characteristic in this wine (and I really like). That nose is incessantly pure and bounding with freshness. The palate follows with tight citrussy fruit & very dry, fierce acidity. It makes the palate very fresh, but its not for someone looking for subtlety. I can still taste it, burning on the way down.

So this is a very dry, intense, tight and powerful white that is dominated by grapefruity acidity, with hidden delights still to come. I’d suggest abandoning the normal rules with this wine and stick it away for a good 6 months. I can see this good wine being damn good with time. 17.5++