The 98 version of this defied the vintage trend & produced something special. It was quite a rich, forward style, but the quality was top notch. I loved that wine – it seemed to joyously pop up now and again at functions, in out of the way bottleshops and at random dinners. It followed me like a vinous good luck charm, each time reminding me how bloody good it was.

Happily, I think this is even better. Its much leaner, undeveloped & crystalline in a delicate and grapefruity style. On the nose it presents as quite Chardonnay driven with spicy & somewhat aldehydic characters & developed yeasty overtones. Its not until the palate that the firmness of Pinot Noir is felt, but in a quite restrained fashion – it still feels quite primary, even though its at the 10 yr mark. The acid is soft which suggests that this won’t be the longest lived wine, but it still tastes admirably youthful.

Ultimately its quite a complete package. It’s no blockbuster grand cuvee, but its still a genuinely fine, impeccably well made vintage Champagne. 18.6