Thursday, 16 April 2009

Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir 2004

Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir 2004 (Tasmania)
$45, Cork, 13.5%
Winery Website

Tasmania is often heralded as the ubiquitous 'next big thing' in wine circles and I, for one, am looking forward to it. More fragrant whites & savoury Pinots (not to mention the sparklings) please!

It's not often, however, that I try a Tasmanian Pinot with any sort of bottle age on it (Domaine A excepted), so this bottle is a rare experience indeed.

This Stefano Lubiana Pinot then is a light ruby red colour with tawny edges, showing a subdued nose that is rather secondary in nature, the gamey, leathery sappy elements taking over, crushing the primary fruit verve. On the palate the licoricey, red fruit & mulch of the mid palate is a winner, but the dried, slightly metallic & minty back end is quite drawn and not particularly attractive.

A somewhat faded style, this is still drinkable in its maturing Pinot mould, however it lacks the freshness, complexity or interest to save it from averageness. 16

2 comments:

  1. Try to get hold off something Tasmanian with a little age, Domaine A as you mention, Freycinet or Pipers would equally work well but for the SL Estate to be fading after only 4 years is criminal!

    2004 was a shocking vintage for most producers and very few wines from this vintage will do anything but die! The Laurel Bank is excellent now but at the time of its release was undrinkable, Tinderbox was undrinkable then, now and in the wont do anything in the future as well and shows the typical traits of being too greedy and over cropping in difficult years. Unfortunately not something that they were alone in doing.

    The 2004 Stoney Cabernet on the other hand is looking fantastic... Domaine A picked their fruit for their PInot in late March and the fruit for their Cabernet on June 12th!! Go figure!

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  2. The 12th of June! Getting nervous by then....
    I had the 04 Stoney Pinot just recently - not bad, but totally outshone by the 05 Domaine A Pinot served next to it.

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