Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir 2004 (Tasmania)
$45, Cork, 13.5%
Tasmania is often heralded as the ubiquitous 'next big thing' in wine circles and I, for one, am looking forward to it. More fragrant whites & savoury Pinots (not to mention the sparklings) please!
It's not often, however, that I try a Tasmanian Pinot with any sort of bottle age on it (Domaine A excepted), so this bottle is a rare experience indeed.
This Stefano Lubiana Pinot then is a light ruby red colour with tawny edges, showing a subdued nose that is rather secondary in nature, the gamey, leathery sappy elements taking over, crushing the primary fruit verve. On the palate the licoricey, red fruit & mulch of the mid palate is a winner, but the dried, slightly metallic & minty back end is quite drawn and not particularly attractive.
A somewhat faded style, this is still drinkable in its maturing Pinot mould, however it lacks the freshness, complexity or interest to save it from averageness. 16
TIM SMITH NAILS IT AGAIN
2 hours ago