Sir Paz Shiraz 2007

Sir Paz Shiraz 2007 (Yarra Valley, Vic) $30, Cork, $14.0%
Winery Website

This landed on my table today and I almost ignored it, save for the gleaming 'Gold Medal Yarra Valley Wine Show 2008' circular disc on the label. I don't think we ever stop being distracted by shiny things, do we?

Anyway, this comes from hand picked vines planted in 1997 and located in the Southern Yarra Hills. It spent 18 months in French oak and, from what I can ascertain, is the latest release. From a packaging point of view, it reminds me of a circa 1998 Cruickshank Shiraz/Chambourcin (don't get me started on the Cruickshank's. More brett than wine) with a simple label and, now old fashioned, natural cork. I can see the appeal, but placed up against even a simple Grant Burge Cameron Vale Cabernet it looks positively dated.

Thank god then that the wine itself is pretty good. The nose is a bit smoky, wood fire and Brazilian Churrasco style, with a whiff of pork sausage thrown in for good measure. Very 07 Yarra then, but its not offensive. On the palate, what's immediately obvious is that the ripeness is, from a Yarra Valley point of view, really quite consistent, making for a plump and quite generous wine that's atypical for the Yarra Valley. Through the finish it's again rich, savoury and really nicely handled. Lot's to like. Unfortunately, there is still the cloak of bushfire smoke sitting like a shroud over the palate, covering up some of the really good bits with its blackness, but again, its not offensively smoky.

Full of charm and promise, this is suffering only from the vagaries of the vintage. Much to like underneath and, on current form, the 08 version should be keenly looked out for.. 16.5