Three quite different wines, all very drinkable examples of their kind. These three wines are all easily available (on line at least) and present such heartwarming diversity and interest.
The Turners Crossing in particular was so enjoyable and so keenly priced that I'm now on the hunt to buy more.
Champagne Drappier Grand Sendree 2002
The few 2002 Champagne's I have had so far have all been very dry, even overly dry (like the 02 Roederer for example), with real back palate grip. This is no exception: Its chalky, dry and almost raspy, with some light yeasty overtones giving it some drinkability. A subtle fruit infusion of peach on the mid palate is a subversive delight, but otherwise this a Champagne for the future -A serious, distinctively Champagne like Champagne (that chalk character could come from nowhere else) that will only get better with another 5 years under its belt. 17.5+++
FX Pichler Klostersatz Federspiel Gruner Veltliner 2006
I am becoming a Gruner tragic. This beguiling grape comes almost exclusively from Austria; is hard to track down; can be quite expensive (though most are really quite good value) and the range that reaches our shores is surely only a taste of what is produced. Still, I can feel a love affair coming on - that mix of textural palate, lifted aromatics and the all important Gruner spice is something very attractive indeed.
This apparently is an entry level example ($AUS40) though its unmistakably varietal, interesting and delicious. The nose is quite Pinot Gris like, with pear and a note of honeysuckle in a quite aromatic, yet hardly 'open' style. The real story is the rollercoaster palate, which starts off full and quite generous with a mouthful of musky, lightly honeyed pear juice, like a Gris, until the back end goes all spicy Gewurtz style, finishing with phenolic grip, yet much more like a Kabinett German Riesling in its freshness. In the end its a very interesting wine, though with enough missing in the intensity department to hint at what the greatest wines could be -which are reputably white burgundy like in their complexity and depth. I can't wait to try them out. 17.6
Turners Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
The more I drank of this, the more I liked it. It reminded me most of a Grampians red, with that perfect interplay between savoury, understated, super powered fruit and integrated oak. It is without question a powerful red, but without any of the nagging over ripeness and eucalpyt dominance shown by so many Bendigo reds. The ruling flavour here is dark chocolate. Indeed, all present felt compelled to sit back with some good 70% cocoa dark stuff and drink the night away.
At $25 its scorching value and I think that it will peak in 3-5 years and drink very well for a considerable period after that. Excellent. 18.5
THE NATURE OF NATURE IN WINEMAKING
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