Pyramid Valley Grower Series Gewürztraminer 2007

Pyramid Valley Grower Series Orton Gewürztraminer 2007 (Hawkes Bay, NZ)
$45ish, Screwcap, 14.5%
http://www.pyramidvalley.co.nz/

'In Memoriam: This unique acre of 30 yr old vines was one of New Zealand's first plantings of Gewürztraminer. Once proudly tended by our friends John Orton and Kerrie Cleverdon, this parcel was summarily ripped out by new owners who deemed so small a block 'impractical'. We have bottled this wine unclarified, undiminished, as a testament to the wisdom of old vines.'

There is always a story behind the Pyramid Valley wines, and this is no exception. Tasting every bit as genuine as it sounds, this is certainly an interesting wine, particularly after a diet of rather one dimensional, whistle clean Australian & Kiwi whites.

Full yellow gold in colour and more than a little cloudy, this smells ripe and opulent, very much in the Alsatian groove, and very much in the mould of the renowned Alsace star, Zind Humbrecht. It's a nose full of stewed apricots & musk, with a little volatility thrown in to remind of how seriously ripe the grapes were. The palate too teeters into overripeness, with apricot skin & peach juice in an almost oily, viscous setting, though the length is an undoubtedly redeeming factor. There could be a smidgen of botrytis in there too, for some low level funk edges the palate, leading to a finish that is irrepressibly long and convincing, if initially very alcoholic (Don't drink this too cold).

What ultimately holds this wine together then is character. It's obviously lovingly made and, keeping with the wineries ethos, unquestionably unique. Personally, I found it a somewhat challenging drink (hence the hardly mindblowing score) but I can certainly understand and fully appreciate the 'naturalness' of this wine. 17.3/91