Robert Stein Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (Mudgee, NSW)
$40, DIAM, 13.5%
What I like about this Cabernet, and it's definitely not for everyone, is just how quintessentially Mudgee it is. It's first and foremost Mudgee wine, with Cabernet a close second, all expressed in a fashion that is deep set and wonderfully savoury, with a distinct lack of flashy fruit sweetness that I think makes it even more palatable.
That character is obvious from first whiff too, the nose showing old school red Mudgee dirt, iron and dusty Cabernet characters cut with a little herbaceous leafiness and a hint of blackberry.
The palate follows with a really hearty, dry and long, chocolate and leather, tannins a go go style. It actually had me thinking of the more modern Wendouree Cabs actually, but with red dirt instead of Clare mint, the emphasis heavily favouring savoury length and tannins than fruit (though not quite as hardcore as Wendouree). A real meat and potatoes wine.
Good stuff. 17.8/92
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