?%, Cork
Source: Capricious host
www.jacksonestate.co.nz
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| Old man Jackson himself. What a great beard |
In the case of this oddity it was presented blind, as usual, after the final session of this years Summer of Riesling tasting (so it effectively followed about 40 young dry whites, just for contrast). What was most heartening though was that it was still recognisable as a Sauvignon Blanc, albeit in a slightly advanced form, and still carrying a nose that retained some trademark herbal Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc-ness even after 20 years in a (cork sealed) bottle.
Going by that nose, we actually had it pegged as a five year old, oak aged Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc - such was the surprising freshness (though a subjective, caramel freshness). The palate wasn't really that fresh in comparison, with more than a fleck of cardboard and some rather blocky acidity rising up through the finish. But still, it wasn't terrible, with enough flavour to hold everything together, so when coupled with that creme-caramel-meets-asparagus nose, the end result was nothing if not intriguing (and at least mildly drinkable).
In the end it was just a really quite interesting wine. A Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc affirming wine even (from one of the original Marlborough producers), that reminds that the region and variety can be good (it can be) with the savalanche of overtly sweet and thin wines that now line our bottleshop shelves not truly representative of what can be achieved.
I've had 2 year old bottle of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that have tasted worse than this, let alone a 20 year old. Win. U/R (it's a curio, ratings seem irrelevant).
2009/10 WCA Wine Journalism 'Young Gun; Wine Judge; Gourmet Traveller WINE and Breathe Hunter Valley magazine contributor; LattéLife & The Retiree columnist; National Liquor News tasting panellist and Chablis lover who fell into the liquor industry chiefly to buy cheap beer.
Who would have thought NZ sauvignon blanc could age. And now I have read two references to aged NZ sauvignon blanc in a week. Yours, and the other was in James Halliday's Wine Odyssey from 2003, where he noted in relation to a 1992 Cloudy Bay sav blanc that "We talk about the development curves of sauvignon blanc, agreeing that at 3 or 4 years of age it becomes decidedly difficult, with spikes of herb, grass, asparagus and green capsicum, then progressively changing ... to (in this instance) 10 years when it acquires a gentle honeyed taste and feel ... It is an experience few people have, simply because conventional wisdom is that sauvignon blanc is best when young, a view reinforced by the ugly patch in then goes through".
ReplyDeleteInteresting stuff.
Appreciate the "ugliness curve" and will be sharing same with my Saturday lunch lady friends.
ReplyDeleteI think this would have been quite a wine in it's youth too - a heap of power to be had.
ReplyDeleteQuite a few years ago I had a four of five year old bottle of Palliser Estate sauv blanc and it was superb. It had a really strong nose of lychee, and tasted of it but with real depth. I have also had some cheaper Australian sauv blancs with three or four years age (with oak, or without) and found them to be quite palatable.
ReplyDeleteI've heard of some old Cloudy Bay Sauvs drinking well at 10 yrs old too. They do look very ugly as two year olds however.
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