Port Phillip Estate Salasso Rose 2011

Port Phillip Salasso
Pale. Very.

Port Phillip Estate Salasso Rosé 2011 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic)
12.5%, Screwcap, $28
Source: Wine list
www.portphillipestate.com.au

The march of the pale, savoury, orange coloured rosé continues. I’m quite a fan of this wine but my dining companion wasn’t so sure. ‘It’s not fruity at all’ she said. When I mentioned that it is modeled on a Provençal style (in theory) she warmed to it greatly. Moral of the story? Reference points are really useful with wines such as this (or at least I think so).

As for the wine itself, it still needs another 6 months in bottle and was – once it got above ‘ice bucket cold’ – really quite enjoyable. A little sternly dry perhaps, but enjoyable. The colour looks super serious too, a pale pale orange shade that makes it look more like a white with a little skin contact than anything drawn from red grapes (though much brighter). It smells restrained too, a hint of strawberries, orange rind and ‘not fruit’.

The attraction of this ‘blush’ though is largely through the middle palate, which has barrel ferment richness and maybe just a hint of red berries (it’s produced from Shiraz fruit after all). It finishes dry, long and citrussy though not unripe, making for a wine of some balance and style. Plenty of intrigue here. 17.7/92+

Andrew Graham Avatar

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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