Friday, 17 August 2012

Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2008

Peter Lehman Stonewell
Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2008 (Barossa, SA)
14%, Screwcap, $100
Source: A glass from a colleague's bottle

Like the new Stonewell label? It's aimed at integrating this wine into the Peter Lehmann range a little better. Whilst it achieves that well, I do wonder if it has given up some label recognition in the progress (it has for me). What do you think?

Fittingly, this wine appears to be missing some charm too - the challenges of the record 2008 March heat wave writ large.

You can smell that warmth on the nose which is dense and choc fudge-y and heavy. Whilst the oak treatment here is first rate, giving sweetness to the nose and texture to the palate it can't cover up the 'flatness' and desiccation of the little black Shiraz berries at this wines core. There is a fraction more freshness on the palate, though it's hobbled by bucket loads of added acid drying things out before a short and warm finish. On the plus side this carries no shortage of concentration (hot vintages are good at that) and a hearty mid palate.

Ultimately the issue here is purely about a lack of vitality. That sexy oak can't cover for stressed fruit that will never look fresh, no matter how much tartaric acid is thrown at it. 15.8/87