Coriole Lloyd Reserve Shiraz 2009 (McLaren Vale, SA)
14%, Screwcap, $85
The top wine in the Coriole tree and typically a long lived beast. Sourced from the original dry-grown 1919 plantings, this spends 18 months in French oak and a further 12 months in bottle before release. Icon Shiraz boxes ticked.
It looks a little liquered and dehydrated this vintage, yet that is complemented by an extra degree of concentration. I'm just picturing tiny little berries on old vines, the Willunga escarpment in the distant background, the beach just down the road. Vale Shiraz to the max. Tastes it too - deep plum fruit, the firm skin tannins (those tiny berries make for a more formidable skin:juice ratio which means more tannins) just adding to the concentration.
Ultimately this Coriole tastes like a proper old vine McLaren vale Shiraz, the structure and form all authentic stuff. It's just a fraction drying and warm, but the heart is true.
Score: 17.5/20 91/100+
Would I buy it? Only as an older wine. Value not quite there for the moment.
JOHN McGRATH'S FIRST FOOD COLUMN
3 hours ago