Jean Marc Brocard ‘Montmains’ Chablis 2006 (Chablis, France)
$45, Screwcap
Firstly, how good is it that Chablis is in Screwcap. Secondly, does anyone still drink/like Chablis these days? With the news recently that Sauvignon Blanc has overtaken Chardonnay as Australia’s white of choice, I am curious to see whether Chablis is similarly considered uncool.. (I still dig it).
This Chablis, resplendent in its rather naff old school label, opens up volatile and withdrawn. There is some citrus in there somewhere but its all hidden at the moment, behidn a wall of acid wafting out of the glass. The palate is similarly all wound up in acidity with a dumb and surprisingly alcohol dominant palate (in the absence of fruit, alcohol wins the day, even when its only 13%). There is a splash of late palate Kimmeridgian cream, but its similarly buried, in what is quite a metallic palate. At the moment this is quit a laborious drink – extremely surprising compared to most 06 Chablis, which seem particularly forward and generous. Lets see how it goes on day 2…
Day 2 and it opens very fresh out of the fridge, initially giving off seaside aromatics – its the smell of the ocean, with saltwater on the breeze and seashells beneath your feet…..
But back to the wine. As it warms up (it really needs a bit of warmth to come alive) the weak citrus, limestone and fresh cream nose really lifts out of the glass, gaining density with warmth, becoming a lovely Chablis nose, eventually becoming boisterous and quite tropical.
On the palate this is now soft, with a lemony, tinned peaches character to match up with the slightly tinny, sternly acidic finish. Stony, yet not without richness, this feels a little lost on the palate today, and although it smells great, the wine doesn’t quite satisfy, particularly the intrusive finish.
In desperate need of some time in a very cool cellar, for the nose and that acidity promises much for the future. I’d be waiting and drinking from 2010 on. 17
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Interestingly, I left about a glass of this in the bottle to see what would happen – 4 nights in the fridge and it is oxidised and gone.
Perplexing wine this….