Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir 2004 (Tasmania)
$45, Cork, 13.5%
Tasmania is often heralded as the ubiquitous ‘next big thing’ in wine circles and I, for one, am looking forward to it. More fragrant whites & savoury Pinots (not to mention the sparklings) please!
It’s not often, however, that I try a Tasmanian Pinot with any sort of bottle age on it (Domaine A excepted), so this bottle is a rare experience indeed.
This Stefano Lubiana Pinot then is a light ruby red colour with tawny edges, showing a subdued nose that is rather secondary in nature, the gamey, leathery sappy elements taking over, crushing the primary fruit verve. On the palate the licoricey, red fruit & mulch of the mid palate is a winner, but the dried, slightly metallic & minty back end is quite drawn and not particularly attractive.
A somewhat faded style, this is still drinkable in its maturing Pinot mould, however it lacks the freshness, complexity or interest to save it from averageness. 16