Andrew Jefford, beside having an excellent first name, is certainly one of the more contentious critics of Australian wine.
He is known for his views on Australia’s (perceived) lack of terroir driven wines, long criticising elements such as the use of added acidity, tannins and general winemaking edifice in lieu of actually crafting harmonious wines.
Jefford, however, is actually investigating whether this perception is correct, having spent the last 9 odd months ensconced in Australian wine academia at the University of Adelaide, principally to examine the role of terroir in Australian wines.
Along the way, Jefford has posted notes on his blog, detailing some of his travels and travails, with articles also published in Decanter Magazine and Jancis Robinson’s website. Much of what Jefford has written is very provocative indeed, certainly helped by the very high quality of his writing, even if I find myself disagreeing somewhat with many sentiments (though that might be because I’m a parochial Australian).
It was good then to read the latest update to his blog, which details some of the better wines he has uncovered, highlighting the good ‘terroir driven’ wines which Australia can produce. I found myself then, in contrast, nodding in agreement with many of Jefford’s picks.. (here)