(Note: I tasted this pair on Thursday but never quite got around to posting my tasting notes. Since then I’ve spotted these wines in a retailers catalogue for just $12 a bottle. Whilst I wasn’t overly taken with either wine, they go ok for $12).
Love the labels on these two Rolling wines. The wrap around painted label is rather contemporary and well suited to this price point. Good form. Wish the wines were as interesting…
Rolling Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Central Ranges, NSW)
$18, Screwcap, 12%
I like SSB. It’s a blend that when done well (like it is at Grosset or Cape Mentelle for example) makes for a very complete, appealing upfront wine that rates high on the refreshment scale. Beyond the top wines though and it seems to be a rather stagnant style, propped up by unripe fruit and residual sweetness, making for a sea of under $20 Australian SSB’s that are clean, well made, crisp and dead boring wines. That’s more of a shame for when done well, SSB’s are more than fair competition for Marlborough Savvy.
This wine however isn’t about to take up the challenge. Neutral, citrussy, blandish on the nose, which is quite full and sherberty, but focused largely on fast maturing, lemon drop fruit. The palate too is nicely dry, pithy and citrussy with plenty of acid and a clean, somewhat dry finish. What it lacks though is character – it’s just a lean and monosyllabic wine that is sadly unmemorable. 15.5/85
Rolling Shiraz 2008 (Central Ranges, NSW)
$18, Screwcap, 14%
Purple red in colour, the wine itself looks (and smells) like it may have a twinge of Viognier in it, with that brightness and peachy fruit juice aroma that I always notice in Shirognier’s. I’m not holding it against it (a possible inclusion of the V weed that is), but I’m curious to see whether I’m right.
Beyond the fruity suspicions, this smells quite sweet and pretty, with plenty of cranberry and redcurrant over some quite dense, fennel and dirt, cool climate Shiraz fruit. Interestingly, and it works in the Rolling’s favour, it tastes much drier than it smells, with black cherry varietal Shiraz characters giving way to gritty tannins and some back palate bitterness.
After all this good work though, it all falls apart just a bit through the finish, with a generous serve of Golden Circle Tropical Fruit Drink and raspberry Cottee’s sweetness, denting the savoury, drink-me qualities that this wine could have.
A bronze medal wine then, that could have been even better save for the finish. 16/86
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