The Wanderer Pinot Noir 2008
$35, Screwcap, 13%
The new label of Yarra Valley winemaker Andrew Marks (who works with Timo Mayer at Andrew’s parents Gembrook Hill property) with this wine sourced from a single vineyard site near Tarrawarra. Judging by the quality here it’s definitely a label to watch.
Like some of the very best Pinots, this is only very lightly coloured. True to the paradox, whilst it’s light in colour, the structure is hardly wanting, for the acid is firm, extraction is finely balanced and power does not come cloaked in slutty fruit sweetness. Rather, this is a sinewy, strawberry and sap flavoured Pinot, with bright fruit, light flavours and no shortage of citrussy acidity. If anything it needs another year or two in the bottle to flesh out the back end, which is just a fraction tight at present. Regardless it’s fine boned. restrained and artfully made Pinot with real structure and attraction. Went down well with a couple of non Pinot drinkers too. 17.9/92+