Taltarni Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Pyrenees, Vic)
$26, Cork, 14%
I wanted to like this. I really did. Especially after driving past the (stunningly located) Taltarni vineyards on Sunday and tasting numerous Pyrenees Cabernets (which I very much enjoy) over the weekend. The problem is this wine carries the stewed fruit and green tannins of what Jeremy Oliver (correctly) calls ‘both under and over ripe fruit’ and it’s a character that I rather dislike.
Full red in the glass, this Taltarni Cabernet has a brutally ripe nose of prunes, cedar and blackcurrant, topped off with Pyrenees mint/eucalypt. It’s an unquestionably ripe and regional nose, though just a fraction cooked. On the palate it’s built large and firm, with somewhat subdued leafy fruit and green, hard, lingering tannins. A wine that’s all structure with little fruit, I (sadly) didn’t enjoy this much. Cellaring wise it will go long term, but I doubt whether it will ever be balanced. 15.5/85
(Wondering out loud, I’m guessing that the last couple of hot summers and significant drought(s) have played a part in the imbalances here?)