Robert Stein Reserve Shiraz 2007 (Mudgee, NSW)
$40, Screwcap, 13.5%
The man at the winemaking helm of Robert Stein wines these days is Mudgee youing gun Jacob Stein whom, at 26, is the youngest winemaker in Mudgee. At this years Mudgee show, Jacob’s wines picked up no fewer than 6 trophies, including Champion Wine, indicating that he certainly has some talent.
A name to watch.
This Reserve Shiraz sits at the top of the Robert Stein hierachy and is built in a very traditional Mudgee red style (made in one too) with loads of red dirt, roasted meat and hearty savoury flavours. As if to emphasise it’s classical disposition, there is already a fair crust, hinting at the depth and intention within. The nose too is ferrous, earthen and meaty, thick with beefy flavour and deepset oak, if still edged with rich, properly ripe fruit. Similarly the palate is dry, firm and savoury in an unequivocally ‘winey’ form.
It’s a divisive wine perhaps for anyone raised on a red berry, sweet Shiraz diet (no flattering sweetness here) but if you dig the odd leathery Hunter Shiraz (like me) then this will be right up your alley. Liked it. 17.5/91