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Grumpy wine reviews: Rise. Golding, Riorret, Moppity

December 9, 2010

Rise Vineyards Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (Coonawarra, SA)
$22, Screwcap, 14%
Source: Sample
www.risevineyards.com.au

After some initial indecision (noted here) I have finally decided that the 2008 vintage was a pretty average one in Coonawarra. That’s a terribly broad, sweeping generalisation I know, but I just don’t really care (ie I’ve made my mind up). There are of course exceptions, but not enough to warrant a change in heart. This was confirmed tonight by not only this wine, but two further less than stunning wines in the 08 Katnook Cabernet (short, a little dull, lacking delineation 16/87) and the 08 Rymill Cabernet (thin, green edges, mixed ripeness and a lack of real tannins 15.3/86).

This wine though was actually the pick of the three – a little volatile on the nose, if cast firm and just a bit burnt, with scorched blackcurrant, warm year Coonawarra fruit characters. It’s a nose that’s a bit volatile and flat but still with some fruit weight. The palate then has subdued, lightly cooked cassis fruit and a big moccha oak mid palate before finishing with grippy tannins. There is a hardness though to said tannins, an almost metallic astringency and finishing with sappy acid. It tastes like some hard work has been done in the winery, but it’s not going to cover the freshness-lacking fruit. 16.3/87

Golding Wines Block 2 Chardonnay 2008 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
$25, Screwcap, 12.7%
Source: Sampl-
www.goldingwines.com.au

I hate to be negative, but I’ve got to say that this is a disappointment.

Why? Well, because this really does smell lovely, with a rice pudding and peach wildness and sweet vanillan oak nose that is really very attractive. But it just doesn’t deliver on the palate. Actually, the palate starts quite nicely, until the gritty resinous oak comes, delivering in a form that some may call spicy but I’m just calling intrusive. Through the finish it’s oak tannins too, with an oxidative sweatiness that doesn’t help with the freshness either, even given the natural acidity.

Just not quite there really. 16.3/87


Riorret Merricks Grove Pinot Noir 2009 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic)

The latest instalment for this Steve Webber project and again it’s a very smart, affable and pure wine. After the other wines above in fact this was something of a breath of fresh air, built in a style that is almost natural wine like in it’s purity of fruit (and that’s the intent apparently). The key here is just the rounded mid palate of juicy red Mornington Peninsula Pinot goodness, with the only real criticism being a bit too much sweetness and a slightly diffuse finish. Regardless, I really rather enjoyed drinking this and can fully understand (and appreciate) the style.

Good one. 17.8/92

Moppity Shiraz 2009 (Hilltops, NSW)

I have to admit that the (typically) super ripe style that Moppity is known for doesn’t sit perfectly well with me, so I wasn’t really expecting to like this. And I didn’t. Actually, I thought it tasted like ‘prune juice’ (thanks GW) with a fruit profile that is confected and unnatural (with a splash of Viognier perhaps), and topped off with heat and sharp added acid. It’s a style that will impress show judges (note the medals) but doesn’t actually drink all that well.

No. 15/85

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Related Posts:

  • Richmond Grove Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
  • Rymill The Yearling Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
  • Tapanappa Cabernet Shiraz 2008
  • Katnook Founders Block Chardonnay 2012

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20082009Adelaide HillsCabernet SauvignonChardonnayCoonawarraHilltopsMornington PeninsulaPinot NoirShirazWine
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11 Comments


AndyPat
December 9, 2010 at 8:14 PM
Reply

Hey Andrew. I usually like the Moppity style, maybe it is just too ripe this time



Red
December 9, 2010 at 8:40 PM
Reply

Interesting – a contrarian view on 08 Coonawarra. Generally I've read positive things about 08 Coonawarra. The only 08 Coonawarra's that I've sat down and consumed are the Wynns Black Label and Red Stripe, as well as the Majella, and I thought all were pretty impressive (though all were definitely on the riper side of things), though 3 wines isn't enough to form a really strong opinion on a vintage.



Andrew Graham
December 9, 2010 at 9:37 PM
Reply

I really liked the Majella too, ditto the Lindemans Trio and Wynns Black Label. But on the whole it's just a really mixed vintage, with far too many flat wines.



Andrew Graham
December 9, 2010 at 9:38 PM
Reply

Andy – on the Moppity, I think it's very much my personal tastes. I just don't enjoy that glossy, super ripe style of Shiraz all that much.



Jason Brown
December 10, 2010 at 7:35 AM
Reply

Andrew,

Wow – that's a scathing review of the '09 Moppity Estate Shiraz; quite at odds with the steady stream of glowing reviews it's received previously. I'm not suggesting it's a style to suit everyone's palate; one man's Grange is another man's Coolabah Claret. More importantly, independant assessment is one of the key drivers of quality in this industry so I'm always up for some criticism. However, I must say that (in my opinion) this review bears little resemblance to our '09 Estate Shiraz.

The '09 is the least ripe release to date, with alcohol of 13.8%. This compares to the '08 with alc of 15.5% – which you scored higher at Good 16.8/89. I would agree the '08 is a little over-ripe and hot – sadly a victim of the summer heatwave that compressed the vintage – there was simply not enough fermenter space to get the fruit in when it was ready. That wasn't an issue for the Reserve, which appreciably received a priority pass to the fermenter.

Conditions in '09 by contrast were near perfect and other scribes have understandably rated it higher than the '08. They also identify spice, elegance and red fruits. It's also no coincidence that the wine's four gold medals were won at shows where the judges purposely rewarded spicy, expressive, elegant and less ripe styles. It's worth adding that it hasn't performed well in shows where the judges rewarded the riper SA styles. All of this is at odds with references to "super ripe", "heat" and "added acid" – it just doesn't seem to be the same wine.

Again, I won't shy away from criticism of the wine and the last thing I want to see is "group-think" in wine journalism but the contradictions honestly have me scratching my head. We haven't received reports of any bad bottles but it's possible. Perhaps it's worth having another look at it?

Jason



Andrew Graham
December 11, 2010 at 2:41 AM
Reply

Good honest response Jason. Well done.

I wish more producers would take me to task on bad reviews as frankly I'm sure I get it wrong sometimes. Or if I don't get it wrong, a good healthy debate about exactly why that is should work out better for everyone (and I'm a big fan of a passionate debate).

I had this particular bottle at the National Liquor News Tasting Panel dinner on Thursday night and it just looked far too warm. By the sounds of it we might well have got a cooked sample perhaps.

I'm definitely interested in another look.



Jason Brown
December 11, 2010 at 11:04 AM
Reply

Thanks Andrew. I really appreciate you keeping an open mind to the wine. If you send me an email with your details ([email protected]) I'll get a sample off to you.



AndyPat
December 11, 2010 at 8:24 PM
Reply

good constructive debate between producer and reviewer. Well done guys. The producer doesnt always get it right, and neither the reviewer. Will follow future updates with interest. Maybe Jason, you could arrange a mini-vertical?



Anonymous
December 13, 2010 at 7:59 AM
Reply

A very different review to Campbell Mattinson's too. But if a dud bottle, didn't anyone else on the night question its provenance. What did others think on the night?

MichaelC



Damian
December 13, 2010 at 10:07 AM
Reply

Great to see the wine maker and the critic discussing there veiws on this product. Great to see honest reveiws from Andrew as usual that earns a ton of respect from us mere mortals.
And Jasongreat to see you take constructive criticism in your stride. If anything it makes me want to try this wine now.



Andrew Graham
December 13, 2010 at 12:36 PM
Reply

Michael – No question marks on the provenance from the table, it just wasn't particularly popular. I'll ask Mr Bennie tomorrow what he thought of it for another perspective.



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  • About me – Andrew Graham


    At 18 I started working in a small suburban bottleshop, largely to buy cheap beer. It was my first year of university, doing a degree that I didn't really like, and a liquor shop seemed like fun. Needless to say I discovered wine, my uni degree morphed into something completely different and wine/beer took over my life.

    Almost twenty years later and I currently spend my days wearing many (wine) hats, mostly as a writer, presenter and marketer.

    While wearing my writer cap I write features for the likes of National Liquor News, Gourmet Traveller WINE and the RAS plus I'm a Lifestyle FOOD channel wine expert. Read more about me here or get in touch to book your next wine event with me here.

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