A Rosé threeway
|3 X pink love|
I’m feeling capricious tonight, hence the provocative title, but I really couldn’t help myself with this little rosé comparo (too many pink references I think :)). Regardless, these three were nothing if not entertaining, particularly the rather serious and quite fine Mitchell Harris.
Mitchell Harris Rosé 2010 (Macedon & Pyrenees, Vic)
12.5%, Screwcap, $21.95
A blend of early picked Macedon Pinot Noir sparkling base (keep an eye out for some of John’s new sparkling whilst we are on that subject, which should be a goodun’) and some Pyrenees Sangiovese bleed, this was wild yeast fermented in old Hungarian oak and then kept on lees for a further 6 months. Serious rosé this, built with the clear desire to make a more structured and fine style of pink wine, which it does very nicely indeed.
In fact, if there was a poster child for the new style of ‘pale, textural and interesting’ rosé that is currently being spruiked around the nation then this would be it. It smells of vanilla and musk, bright strawberry fruit and raspberries, all served with with a slice of citrus on the side and all looking very serious and entirely appealing. The palate too is worthy, with a firm line of intense acid holding all the wobbly fruit bits in. If anything it’s almost too dry, with brisk citrussy acidity the feature point of the whole palate. Still, some grainy old oak undertones help flesh everything out, and it finishes with a lovely strawberry/citrus tang that had me hooked.
Very smart wine this, made with intent and skill. Good stuff. Extra point too for the commitment to the (rosé) cause. 17.6/92
Teusner Salsa Rose 2009 (Barossa, SA)
13.5%, Screwcap, $18
A more conventional Australian rosé this one, built with Grenache, Mourvedre and a little Shiraz. No doubting the crowd appeal though, for you just know it will win friends at a summer BBQ, even if it looked a little chubby and developed next to the Mitchell Harris.
The appeal here really is the Grenache, particularly given that it comes from a very strong Grenache year (2009). What this most unappreciated grape contributes in the Salsa is a red fruit vibrance, a jubey, raspberry lolly sweetness that is all so very affable. That exuberance is dulled a little in this wine due to the fattening caramel edge of bottle age, though the quality of the fruit is certainly assured.
In the end this is an entirely pleasant and well made style of rosé that would have looked even better 6 months ago. Good. 16.7/89
Le Chat Noir Rosé 2009 (France)
12.5%, Screwcap, $15.95
Sourced from Southern France (The Gard, which sits in between Provence, the Rhone and the Languedoc) this is 100% Cinsault and certainly looks quite different to the other two pinkies in this lineup. Sugar is more noticeable for a starter, with a palate that is much more diffuse too.
In fact from first whiff it smells very different, with a smoky tea and red bean nose that is unquestionably savoury but also a little odd. Palate wise it’s quite sweet and unsettled, the palate broad and rounded, but with a back end that is a little muddled. It’s certainly not an unpleasant wine, with plenty of fruit to go around, but it just seems to lack the requisite composure in this lineup. Fair. 15.7/86