Lark Hill Grüner Veltliner 2010 (Canberra District)
12.5%, Screwcap, $45
As an unabashed Grüner fan, it warms my heart to taste this. For it smells and tastes properly varietal, interesting and plain delicious in an open and ripe form. All that is wanting is a little more vine age, which should give even more intensity and conviction.
Rich, musky, old school Aramis style aromatics, edged with white pepper and honey. It’s a thick and full nose, with lots of fresh juicy power. That nose is followed by a full flavoured, Chardonnay-meets-Riesling palate (in classic Grüner style) that couples orange rind and citrus fruit generosity with pithy acidity, finishing quite fleshy and round, though still fresh. There is even a suggestion of mint through the back end to boot.
It’s a rather likeable wine this (I’ve knocked off a couple of glasses all too easily on a previous occasion), with the slight dullness on the finish the only thing stopping it from superstar points. Looked taut and well put together on the second day too. 17.6/91