|Astrolabe Voyage Chardonnay
Bringin’ sexy back
Astrolabe Voyage Chardonnay 2007 (Marlborough, NZ)
13.5%, Screwcap, $22
Like your Chardonnays to have a little weight? Dig the old school worked Chardy style? Step up! Wild ferments, plenty of oak and some bottle age have given this wine ‘back’ (as Sir Mixalot would say).
It smells of goodness. Of butterscotch and nougat and full yeasty richness, overlaid with full, spicy custard oak. In some ways it’s a little too full and overt, but no mistaking the sexy time opulence. The palate follows suit, dominated by golden vanillan oak, woven in through the peachy fruit and yeast driven fullness. That oak lingers a bit too long through the finish, but there’s well enough acidity to clean things up.
In many ways this is a wine driven by the winemaker and not the fruit, but, like a morning croissant, all that rich sweetness is still appealing, even if you probably couldn’t drink all that much of it. Good wine at the core regardless. 17.3/90
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