|Albert Mann – he’s the man. Or he was the man|
Albert Mann Cuvee Albert Pinot Gris 2008 (Alsace, France)
14%, Screwcap, $52
This particular bottle though didn’t quite hit the heights I’d expect from this label. It certainly looked the goods, with a green/golden straw colour (correct) and a full nose that suggested classic Alsatian deliciousness. The challenge though is just how ripe that yellow pear nose is, edged with volatility and just a hint of bottle fat to slightly obscure the purity of the fruit below.
On the palate too it’s similarly broad and expansive, with more of that yellow pear and honeysuckle richness that carries all the opulence, but also looks a fraction sweaty and warmish through the back. No doubting the rich power and weight here but it’s also a fraction blowsy, even despite the late acid dip. That sweetness mars the finish too, a cheeky final slap from a wine that shouldn’t be fighting you.
Still, no doubting the hedonistic joy here (and if drunk icy cold it’s still rather delicious) but in the context of the label it’s not quite there. 16.9/89
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