|Blind Corner Cremant
Blind Corner Cremant 2009 (Margaret River, WA)
12%, Crown Seal, $30
There exists something of a hole in the Australian bubbly market. A hole that could be filled with a wine such as this… A bottle fermented, single vineyard (off a block currently in conversion to Biodynamics) sparkling Chenin Blanc that spent 16 months on yeast lees. It’s got some of the detail of a traditional Pinot/Chard based, Champagne inspired style but with the sort of simple, fruit driven purity that has fuelled the Prosecco boom. On a conceptual level at least I’m particularly excited by this wine indeed.
Happily, it delivers on that promise too. It’s very young and greenish, but it never feels underripe, with a neutral, dry nose that at first looks a little monochromatic, until you pick up the understated wafts of yeasty hay and citrus that is. That character is carried through onto the very dry and understated palate, which similarly carries some clever textural highlights to have you coming back. It finishes dry, Chenin citrussy and almost briny, yet never hard or overtly acidic.
Strictly speaking it’s a simple wine (which is why it doesn’t get mega points), but I think that’s the intention, just like Prosecco. It’s more about purity, delicacy and refreshment. I’m a fan (and going to buy more). 17.8/92