Charismatic imports from Xavier Bizot’s Terroir Selections
|Nice lineup of imports here..|
I’ve talked before about the good work of Xavier Bizot, Tapanappa and Terre a Terre GM, but that’s previously been largely in an Australian context. Xavier, however, has – with wife Lucy – also been quietly working on a portfolio of exclusive imports, distibruted under the name of ‘Terrroir Selections’. This range features wine sourced from several renowned old world producers, most of whom have wonderfully rich histories behind them. For some examples of such illustrious makers think Clos du Tart, Marcel Deiss and Domaine de la Grange des Pères (to name just a few).
Now Xavier was in town recently and was kind enough to swing by with a brace of said goodies (I’m always happy to see such visitors) for us to taste, all of which showed no shortage of genuine style and charisma – A brace of Real wines, each and every one of them. Of course you pay for such prestige, and the prices do tend to reflect that (however the figures below are all bound to be wrong, so watch this space) though that’s not to say that there isn’t value in the lineup.
As you can see the notes are unashamedly positive, purely due to the challenge of finding real faults with such consistency (even though I didn’t love the Dolcetto or the Moscato).
Scribblings are as written on the day, with some brief winery-type notes in italics.
For more information check out the Terroir Selections website
Ceretto Blange Langhe Arneis 2010 (Piedmont, Italy) 12.5% $33
A big volume wine apparently, but shows all the Arneis good bits.
Green apple fruit, chalky (but lowish) acidity, good phenolic grip on the finish, softened by some subtle residual sugar. A lunchtime white with character and texture. 16.7/89
Pascal CotatLes Monts Damnés Sancerre 2010 (Sancerre, France) 13% $75
Barrel fermented in old oak. The Monts Damnés vineyard is a lieu-dit in Chavignol. Pascal owns 1.5 hectares in the higher parts, facing due north, and the vines are around 35 years-old.
Classic Sancerre build this, with that flinty ‘grey’ rocky nose and just the first hint of melon fruit richness. Lovely long palate with a rocky, yet quite generous, palate topped off with chalky acidity. Lots of Sancerre heart and style – it feels very classic and pure. Nice wine. 18.5/94
François Lumpp Givry 1er cru Crausot blanc 2009 (Cote Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France) $66
From the Northern Cote de Chalonnaise. The Crausot Premier Cru is at the top of the hill.
Quite a full nose with mealy fine oak that is just a fraction obvious. Very youthful, estery nose. Lovely rich, whipped cream palate is quite rich but restrained by lovely chalky acidity. Like this. 17.8/92+
François Lumpp Givry 1er cru Pied de Clou Rouge 2009 (Cote Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France) $53
The Pied de Clou vineyard is located next to the winery on the outskirts of Givry, on the very gentle lower slopes where the soils are deep “argilo-calcaire”.
What a bargain this is. Lovely bright pink/reddish colour. Red cherry nose over a slightly pointed palate
that looks surprisingly sappy and backwards considering it’s station. Fillup of tannins very welcome through the finish. A happily surprising ‘bargain Burgundy’ (an oxymoron I know) this is, if just a fraction lightish. 17.3/90
Ceretto Dolcetto d’Alba Rossana 2009 (Piedmont, Italy) $30
Juicy, grapey, simple juice Dolcetto style though not without charm. 16/87
Ceretto Nebbiolo d’Alba Bernardina 2008 (Piedmont, Italy) $40
Washed out brick colours, slow cooked beef and roasted red fruits on the nose. Drying, old school palate with firm tannins that look just a fraction desiccated. Quite classic Nebbiolo if just wanting more weight and flesh. 16.6/88
Ceretto Barolo Zonchera 2007 (Barolo, Piedmont, Italy) $75
Multi vineyard blend. 2-3yrs in new and old Slovenian oak.
Truffles, merde and an essential Barolo-esque wildness. Slow cooked beef again, the palate is a step up in juiciness, vanillan oak and serious tannins. Unmistakably serious, yet quite quite juicy wine. Rather tasty. 17.5/91
Ceretto Barbaresco Bernadot 2007 (Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy) $118
Rather opulent after the Barolo, this looks fleshier and pretty even, perhaps too modern and fleshy for very big love, with cherry fruit and softened tannins. Plush and pleasant though not quite breathtaking. 17.1/90
Ceretto Barbaresco Bricco Asili 2007 (Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy) $195
Vineyard planted in 1974.
An immediate extra layer of oak but also extra fragrance, more roses and red fruit. Lovely tannins, proper tannins. Quite a soft and rounded mid palate before the tannins kick in. Quite regal and even quite pretty wine. Seriously wine. 18.1/93
Ceretto Barolo Prapo 2007 (Barolo, Piedmont, Italy) $135
A very dense and meaty expression here, edged with creamy vanillan oak. Very young and plush this is rich, creamy and generous with classic tannins and balance. Supple tannins and power. Evenly balanced and proper proportioned. Grown up wine. 18.3/93
Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche 2007 (Barolo, Piedmont, Italy) $345
Rather wildly perfumed and rich, there’s again a wild, almost floral edge to the nose. Very ripe, though not desiccated nose. Generosity on the palate makes this very more-ish, yet it’s also quite backwards and restrained. Firm, yet well integrated tannins are vibrant and classic. Such richness and power! Wow wine. 18.7.95
Ceretto Moscato d’Asti 2010 (Asti, Piedmont, Italy)
The only wine in this lineup I didn’t enjoy. Lovely grape juice nose but the palate just looks a bit flat and flabby. The bottle was a bit warm though, yet I can only judge on what was presented. 15/85