Lark Hill Shiraz Viognier 2010 (Canberra district)
13.5%, Screwcap, $40
Lark Hill has hit a new high in recent years, driven by the input (I think) of founding couple Dave and Sue Carpenter’s son, Chris, who has taken on a much more prominent role in the day-to-day business of the estate.
This Shiraz (with 6% Viognier) is drawn from Bryan and Jocelyn Martin’s Rosehill vineyard at Murrumbateman, is one suitably sexy wine for the vintage, showing well enough fruit depth to manage the overt spice of 2010.
It’s a beguiling nose, an unusual one. One moment it’s lush, brambly and glossy, the smoky stems and juicy apricot Viognier fruit topping things off nicely. The second whiff is all herbal violets and a hint of prosciutto. Dandelions too. It’s a moveable target, an oddly marginal nose given the recent run of warm Canberra vintages, but still something to savour.
The palate starts sweetly though, with vanilla bean oak that descends into red cherry liqueur fruit. From there it gets darker, stemmer, stalkier before finishing with smoky dark tannins. Lots of intrigue on this high toned palate, with the late hit of peachy Viognier juiciness prettying up the finish.
Interesting wine this and a very solid result from an odd vintage. 17.7/92+