Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2009 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
13.5%, Screwcap, $40
Riddle me this Batman – why is the M3 still so cheap? How is that a single vineyard Chardonnay, made by one seriously talented wine team and constantly lauded by reviewers, be is still so relatively inexpensive? I mean $40 is not inexpensive for many sure, but considering that it’s competing in the same quality game as Pierro, Penfolds Bin A, Leeuwin Art Series etc, this is dead set cheap. Or at least I think so.
And this year is another goodun’. It’s everything you’d want an M3 Chardonnay to be, kicking off with a nose of pineapple, coconut ices oak and a little malo creaminess that is built tight, defined and perfectly restrained. a quietly spoken young man in a very fine suit. What’s the standout feature here is the poise – it straddles the restraint/power balance pretty well. That palate has a lovely tight and quite delicate balance, with rather soft acidity if just a fraction warm through the finish. Think style and modern Chardonnay restraint, if maybe just a little light on the back palate persistence? Still lovely Chardy though, with a great line of velvet glove power, a proper line and no fat.
Enjoyable wine this, in a very classic Shaw & Smith mould. It almost writes itself really, such is the consistency of this label, again proving just how suitable the Adelaide Hills is for Chardonnay. 18/93