|Lark Hill Gruner
Great packaging too
Lark Hill Gruner Veltliner 2011 (Canberra district)
12%, Screwcap, $40
Just a few (3) vintages down now and already kicking goals. I can’t say I love this as much as the 2010 iteration, though it’s still a wine with plenty of appeal. All that is missing in fact is that peppery, pear varietal edge that many similarly styled – say Federspiel level – Austrian Gruners show. It’s a character that should come with more vine age though (so the future looks assured).
What I found most curious about this wine was how Riesling-esque it was. And Clare Valley Riesling-esque at that, with ripe melon and lime fruit over a quite ripe, soft and rounded mid palate before finishing with pithy lemony acidity. It has this lovely lusciousness and generosity that Gruner does so well, but it still says ‘I can’t believe I’m not a Riesling’. Regardless, I still enjoyed my glass and the label is absolutely one to watch. 17.4/91