|Soul Growers SGM
Good value too
Soul Growers ‘Equilibrium’ Shiraz Grenache Mourvedre 2009 (Barossa Valley, SA)
15%, Screwcap, $25
If there is one thing that I really like about these Soul Growers reds it’s how congruent they are. By that I mean that the philosophy (they way they grow grapes/make wine/approach everything) of the guys behind the label – Paul Heinicke, David Cruickshank and the Lindner Brothers – is reflected in the wines. I’m talking no bullshit wines from no bullshit – yet quintessentially generous – guys. You can’t help but respect that, even if the big and hearty products of this approach aren’t quite what you’re into.
Speaking of the wines they’re all open fermented, basket pressed and usually spend plenty of time in oak (yet rarely look oak dominated. There is a skill in that). Think Rockford with a sprinkle of Torbreck sexiness and you’re on the right track.
This particular red is a blend of 41% Shiraz, 39% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre and looks very solid indeed – it smells of vibrant Grenache and rich Shiraz with the Grenache in particular giving loads to the nose. The palate – as usual with the Soul Growers wines – is where the party really starts though, showing a dry, serious and deepset form that is savoury and earthen, the oak imparting a little chocolate and the fruit giving a little flirtatious sweetness. What is most impressive is the balance here – there’s just a hint of jamminess on the nose, yet the palate looks fresh and carries it’s alcohol surprisingly well. The line through the finish in particular is very nice, the tannins quite fine and lightish yet look natural and work for the blend.
Another excellent 2009 Barossan GSM style showing the strength of the blend in the vintage (2009) and overall for the region. An easy recommendation here. 17.8/92