Coriole Fiano 2011 (McLaren Vale, SA)
13%, Screwcap, $25
For some reason every time I hear the word Fiano I want to sing it. Like this but ‘that’s Fiano’. Aaron ‘Brash’ Brasher suggested that he breaks out into Laura Branigan’s ‘Ti Amo’ when thinking about this wine. Both valid I think…
Speaking of valid I’m firmly warming to McLaren Vale Fiano. I particularly like the fact that Vale producers aren’t afraid of a little phenolic grip, which I rather like seeing in dry, warm climate white wines. Helps complement the typically lower acidity. Not that there is any lack of acidity in this 2011 version which, ike many other ’11 South Australian whites, positively smells of acidity.
Beyond the acidity this is a tangy number, kicking off with a lemon and grapefruit nose with a creamy, saltiness to it too. It’s a tighter, leaner and more citrus driven white this year, but the phenolic, slightly spiky palate has no shortage of appeal (particularly as it warms up). Again the clincher is that saltiness, a dry, chalky citrus etching to the palate that makes it a little sullen served cold but an interesting dry white as it warms up. Good, calamari friendly vino. 17.3/90
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