Dominique Portet Fontaine Rosé 2011 (Yarra Valley & Pyrenees, Vic)
13%, Screwcap, $20
Historically one of Australia’s better savoury Rosés is Fontaine (or at least I think it is) and the 2010 version was particularly good. The 2011 isn’t quite of the same calibre but I think the Portet’s have done a pretty good job considering the vintage.
Surprisingly given the (light salmon pink) colour it’s a blend of Yarra Valley Merlot, Pyrenees Shiraz and Yarra Valley Cabernet, with a nose to that shows acidity first and strawberry fruit sweetness (and residual sugar) second. In fact you’d almost pick it as a neutral white wine blind, such is that light and tight nose.
Yet for all those dispersions the palate makes this ‘work’, that subtle hint of residual sugar softening out the raw acidity, the finish clear and clean. It’s still a somewhat hardish wine but it’s still a drinkable one in the scheme of things (and likely to flesh out more in the bottle). I’m calling in it’s favour (of sorts). 16.5/88