Fromm Spätlese Riesling 2009
7%, Cork, $NZ28
Whilst my third instalment in the Marlborough diaries series has been waylaid a fraction since I returned from NZ (life got in the way), this wine really deserves a mention in the interim. It is, quite simply, a particularly Germanic Riesling produced in a famously un-Germanic environment.
To further reinforce how different it is (in context), I tasted this immediately after a brace of Sauvignon Blancs and it stuck out for it’s extra refreshment value – a refreshment value that saw me unconsciously drain a glass at lunchtime without even trying (which is rare indeed).
Interestingly enough I think that this sweetness level of Marlborough Riesling is about right, with few of the drier styles working quite as well, leaving only the fully botrytised, super sweet styles to leave a lasting impression.
In the glass it looks rather brilliant too, water clear and bright, with a nose that is precise and clear and lively, showing lemon and barely sugar sweetness with some candied sweet blossom notes. There’s just a hint of botrytis in there but it’s more of a background component rather than anything dominant. Clean vibrant, juicy sweet, spicy palate with that acidity/sweetness tension of the very best. It’s actually a pretty simple beast really but that balance is something to behold. Yes. Double yes. 18/93