|Hahndorf Hill Gruner Veltliner
Hahndorf Hill ‘GRU’ Gruner Veltliner 2011 (Adelaide Hills, SA)
12%, Screwcap, $28
Hahndorf Hill were the
first second (thanks to Paul from Quarry Hill who pointed out that this was the second after Lark Hill) to produce a commercial Gruner in Australia and this vintage sees perhaps the best example in the lineage yet. The style here tends towards the Federspiel end of the ripeness spectrum, favouring refreshment over texture, a stylistic choice that makes it a perfect choice on a 35C Sydney evening. Refreshment plus.
What I most like about this is that it smells like Gruner, of white pepper and melon and spice, the palate lightly phenolic and finishing with proper grip. What’s more it’s fully ripe too, the acidity firm but not ‘unripe grapes’ hard, with a sort of fennel and tangerine line through the finish (that I rather like).
A crisp and refreshing style of Gruner with the extra spiciness of the variety working to advantage, this is hardly a super complex wine, tending more to neutrality and line, but it does provide lots of drinking pleasure. Win. 17.3/90
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