|Holyman Pinot Noir
Serious Tassie Pinot
Holyman Pinot Noir 2009 (Tamar Valley, Tas)
13%, Screwcap, $45
Rather than having me bang on about how much wine love I have for the Stoney Rise vineyard/winemaking style/wines in general, you’re probably best to start by reading my review of the second label Pinot (for context). If you’ve already done that, all I can add is that I’d actually be seriously disappointed if this didn’t impress. I’d feel cheated and a little confused, using phrases like ‘how can Joe Holyman stuff up his top wine’.. ‘but I liked the second wine so much’. That sort of thing. Thankfully, neither of those statements are needed with this 09 Pinot, for it’s a top shelf wine.
What first strikes you is just how ripe it is. How do they get Tassie Pinot so ripe? It’s almost Adelaide Hills ripe such is the muscularity of the palate and the power of the nose. Heck there is even some meaty stewed fruit in there too (though no lack of freshness). The core is all mulberry action though, intense, deep, dark and anything but sweet. Has an excellent brawny persistance to it that is almost Corton like in it’s power and tannic drive. I like that connotation actually, as besides a little chocolate oak sweetness, the rest of the style here is (I’m apologising in advance for falling back on the cliché) rather French indeed.
All that is ultimately required here is time. That chewy, dry and mega-serious finish is just a little on the raw side at present for really big love, though the appeal is undeniable. Actually fuck it, those tannins are excellent – hook in now and enjoy the power. 18.5/94+