Xabregas Riesling range
With the Summer of Riesling now well underway it seems only appropriate to be looking at a range of Australians Rieslings that are pushing the boundaries a little. In this instance I’m talking about the Xabregas Riesling range, a collection of serious, off-dry and interesting Rizzas from WA’s Great Southern produced by the ‘Riesling madmen’ – Paul Hogan and Martin Cooper.
Strictly speaking Xabregas have only been making boundary pushing Rieslings for a few years (although have been producing good Riesling for considerably longer) so this little lineup represents some wines that look like works in progress (from a WA vintage that I don’t think was particularly well suited to Riesling either).
Regardless of the slightly variable results, I’m excited by the effort and passion behind these wines.
(These notes are a little stunted as were written on the run. I think you get the gist though).
X by Xabregas Spencer Riesling 2010 10.9% $40
Orange blossom, tangerine. Nice florals. Carries its sweetness on the
nose. Just a little funk in there too. Lovely solid sherbet and lemon-lime solo nose with a concentrated orange juice sweetness to the palate. Just a
little bluntly sweet but has a nice lime lifesaver tang to it. Good Riesling here. 17.4/91
X by Xabregas Figtree Riesling 2010 11.8% $40
Not quite the florals of the Spencer, a little more lime-lemonade and perhaps more subdued. Extra phenolic
seriousness here, an extra degree of tang and weight that I rather like. Sweetness balance looks better here too, even if it’s still too tight for more love. Lots of
potential here, even if it just needs more acidity to cover that orange tang sweetness. 17.7/92+
Xabregas Mount Barker Riesling 2010 11.4% $23
Lots of obvious sweetness here. Candied. Phenolic palate with seriously
obvious sweetness. Can’t get past that overt sweetness, even though it’s
commercially attractive. 16/87
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