|Mitchell Harris Shiraz
Almost loved it.
Mitchell Harris Pyrenees Shiraz 2009 (Pyrenees, Vic)
14%, Screwcap, $30
As per last vintage, this has a sprinkling of Viognier in the blend (which I think rather helps to soften the Pyrenees power. Pyrenees power – it sounds like an energy company. Or an odd superhero. Maybe).
2009 was the last of the recent drought years in the Pyrenees and you can see just a shade of that in this wine. I know I bang on about vintage quite a bit – and many hate the generalising that it brings – but there is a certain ‘scorched earth’ character in these warm, drought year (there was three: 07-09) Pyrenees wines that sticks out in many wines when placed together in a lineup. There are exceptions, naturally, and there remains plenty of appeal with this Shiraz.
Said wine looks a little volatile and warm on the nose, the fruit showing slightly stewed
redcurrant and hammy whole bunch Shiraz fruit with black jubes and black pepper.
The Viognier works well here, ‘jubefying’ (I made that word up. Confecting even might work) the nose to give it just a hint
of glycerol sweetness. That makes the palate is a little syrupy perhaps but underneath it’s all tasty chocolate graininess with drying, slightly desiccated tannins and finishing warm. The whole effect is just a little cumbersome but has density.
Good but not quite great (yet). Scope for improvement with some bottle age. Plenty of heart though. 16.8/89+
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