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Derwent Estate Pinot Noir 2009 (Tasmania)
13.6%, Screwcap, $35
I’ve been having a bit of a compare and contrast session with this wine actually, largely just to work out why it is quite different to the 2008. Different in a good way that is, but different all the same. Most particularly, it looks quite a bit firmer than the previous vintage, although on a deeper, not-just-vintage-variation level.
From a production point of view, the differences are somewhat minor, yet could also be important. This 09 spent only 9 months in oak vs 12 for the 08 and it also spent more time cold soaking (4 days versus 2). That could well explain some of the structural change (cold soaks giving colour and extract, less oak can mean tauter wines) but not all. A slice of intrigue.
Regardless, this is another good Pinot Noir from an estate better known for its whites than reds (Chardonnay in particular). It’s all dark black cherry fruit in a ripe and dense sort of form with some concentration. Carries that fleshiness of fully destemmed fruit and a certain decadence. Very attractive.
After that lusciousness the raw edge to the palate is a step back. Or to the side maybe. Anyways, it is a big wine, that black cherry fruit again edged with drying tannins and rather a bit of acidity. It all makes for a biggun’ Pinot but not a chubby one with proper structure. Plenty of ticks from me. Fair price too. 17.9/92
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