Stoney Rise Chardonnay 2011 (Tasmania)
13%, Screwcap, $29
After spending several hours on Friday looking at 26 Chardonnays – from a spread of price points – I feel like I’m in a bit of a Chardy groove at the moment, hence why I opened this.
On the topic of said tasting (which was blind), what most saddened me was how poor the under $15 bracket was, the lineup littered with Sauvignon Blanc-esque Chardonnays that were dominated by tropical fruit, carried little oak and genuinely looked flat and ordinary. Very dissapointing, though illustrative of a trend that has been continuing for some time now.
Conversely, once the price range crept up to $20 RRP the quality of the wines ramped significantly, signalling again that we are in a great Chardonnay renaissance (but you’ll have to pay for it).
Anyways, back to this wine. The Stoney Rise Chardonnay is intended as an entry level wine in the Stoney Rise range, pitched as a lively early drinker that is lighter on the oak and winemaking so you can slam it down fast. Or such.
A lean and grapefruity sort of style, this looks very young and fresh but cleverly kissed by Joe Holyman himself (metaphorically speaking. Mike Bennie has been known to lend some kisses on occasion too). On the palate it is just a fraction unsettled at first, before fleshing out through the middle. It finishes lively too, carrying a fast bowler like good line and length, if cast a little simple (like fast bowlers can be). Love that white-flowers-on-grapefruit, ultra cool style though and it certainly has enough textural richness to carry it off. I’d drink it.
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