De Bortoli Old Boys Show Reserve Tawny 21yo (Riverina, NSW)
19%, Screwcap, $40 for 500ml
Sadly, tawny ports like this one are so desperately uncool in the modern scheme of things, their image tainted by cheap, inferior quality wines and a perception of being something of a dying drink. In reality, wines like this this tawny show just how much winemaking history that we’re ignoring.
The joy of this Old Boys tawny is all about richness. Richness, length and unquestioned intensity. A very luscious, very sweet style, the oak particularly vanilla/caramel rich and welcoming. In fact, it’s almost, Muscsat like such is that sweetness of golden syrup-esque unctuousness (I’m not sure of what grapes were used to make this), the finish rounded, long and unquestionably generous. Clean and fresh too (less VA in this, which is welcome).
For anyone raised on Portugese Port this may seem perhaps too sweet, yet I genuinely love the coffeed. plump and mouthfilling style that this wine does with aplomb, that finish going on and on and on, reminding you of those lovely sweet flavours long after the glass is empty. Lovely.
Score: 18/20 93/100
Would I buy it? Yes. By the glass particularly so.
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