Capital Wines Kyeema Reserve Merlot 2010 (Canberra)
13.5%, Screwcap, $46
This has been in the sample pile for a little while now, sitting somewhat (rudely) neglected in the back of the Merlot section. There is method to the madness though as I had this mentally marked with a ‘do not disturb for a few months’ sticker. I’m glad I waited.
Glad as it was a herbal and almost dour wine when first tasted 6 months ago, the cool and wet (in Canberra at least) writ large. Fast forward to October and its still a little twiggy and sappy but now the mid palate has fleshed out to complement, the acid still fresh but now pairing with cool cranberry fruit and some very nice Merlot varietal characters and proper dry twig tannins.
Tip-toeing particularly well on the edge of ripeness, this is actually a rather proper, nuanced and fine boned cool climate Merlot and a welcome departure from much of the round simple juice that often gets passed off as Merlot, plus It’s growing stronger every week. Good work.
Score: 18/20 93/100
Would I buy it? With bottle age in a restaurant, yes
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