Ten Minutes by Tractor ‘Wallis’ Chardonnay 2010 (Mornington Peninsula, Vic)
13.5%, Screwcap, $65
Of all of the Ten Minutes by Tractor whites, the Wallis vineyard Chardonnay is perhaps the most intriguing. What makes it intriguing is the crystalline minerality and the vague hint of sea spray (it is only 5km from the ocean), characters which – when combined with the lean, acid driven palate – make for a wine to have you betwixt.
If that paragraph sounds like a descent into the worst of wine esoterics, I apologise. I just really like these highly detailed wines and almost universally the 2010s have been wonderous pleasures.
As goood as they are, I did initially think this looked a little oaky with an overlay of toasted marshmallow and vanilla nougat wood characters, the oak still sitting on top of the palate a fraction. Still, underneath it’s business time, the almost fishy wild yeast and long, briny, chewy palate showing a power without fatness that has you hooked, complete with a density of acidity and richness tusslin’ with each other in the best possible fashion. It’s like a Chassagne actually, complete with that tension between acidity and fruit power, the wine still recognisably Mornington Chardonnay thanks to that extra layer of sunny, fresh butter mid palate richness.
A classy, slow burning white of weight and length, this is superior stuff. Will only get better as that oak folds in too. Yes, yes yes.
Score: 18.5/20 94/100
Would I buy it? No questioning that this is fully priced. Probably worth it though.