Voyager Estate Shiraz 2010 (Margaret River, WA)
13.5%, Screwcap, $38
You won’t here me say this often, but the addition of 1% Viognier really helps this Voyager Shiraz. I had this particular wine in a lineup of much thicker and more plush South Australian Shiraz and it really stood out (in a good way) thanks to its more earthen, savoury and properly tannic nature.
Speaking of tannins, I do wish we could see more emphasis on tannin structure in many Australian reds actually, but its not going to happen when the prevailing culture is to avoid excessive maceration and press reds off skins as soon as they hit dryness. Good to see some of the more progressive makers of cool climate Shiraz in particular are addressing that, but its only on the ‘dabble’ scale considering the size of the industry. Of course the commercial imperative dictates that rich fruity wines will sell, but I think the pursuit of tannins will reward more in the longer run.
Anyways, enough half cocked rant. This is a bright purple coloured wine – plum jam colour even, which is apt considering the concentrated sweet berry on both nose and palate. The berries are edged with bitter gravelly tannins, fennel and earth. It’s a sneaky sort of wine in that regard, initially looking a little too berried and bold but every sip brings out more little flourishes – an extra layer of tannins here, acidity there. You ultimately can’t help but admire the craftsmanship and style of what is a pretty clever Margaret River Shiraz. Good stuff.
Score: 18.3/20 93/100+
Would I buy it? Yes. For the cellar