Brands Laira Blockers Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Coonawarra, SA)
14.8%, Cork, $28
I’m interested to see what happens behind the scenes at Brands for outwardly it looks like it is sitting still. The wines are still admirably concentrated and the top wines can really pack a punch. Still not hitting the real heights though.
This wine probably isn’t going to change that either – its solid and varietal and representative, yet still not particularly satisfying. Initially sweet and boozy, this gets drier and tighter through the palate, that mid section grainy and thick cut.
That mid palate is pretty solid actually, the tannins long and generous too. Pity its all punctuated by an alcoholic full stop, a drying, dehydrating endpoint which only serves to detract from what is a nicely curranty flow of fruit. That alcohol warmth is a somewhat common theme in the heatwave 2009 vintage, usually an indicator of fruit that possibly could have seen more love (and a sorting table).
Almost but not quite, this Cabernet is absolutely going to get better, yet left me just a teensy bit cold (or hot as it may be).
Score: 16.8/20 89/100+
Would I buy it? No.
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