Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Tasmania)
13%, Cork, $120
|Special wine. Is it special labelling though?|
Bordeaumanian. A blend of Tasmania and Bordeaux. The best way to describe this wine.
Borne of old vines and a truly amazing site, this Cabernet is as far removed from the ‘Wine by Winemaking Tasmania’, ‘Tasmania makes pretty Pinot Noir and top sparkling’ model as you can get. Yes it is precise, yet it is expensive, yes it is uncompromising. But all of this makes it special. And special wines are what it is all about.
As ever the Domaine A Cabernet is only produced in the better years, with the ‘other’ vintages released under the Stoney Vineyard Cabernet label. As ever it is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with a dollop of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot respectively. As ever it is, even at 8 years of age, one of the most impressively structured Cabernets in the nation. You likey tannins? You likey Domaine A Cabernet. Like I do.
What marks this as one of the best Domaine A (alongside the 1999 and 2001) Cabernets is the ripeness. Vibrantly leafy with trademark hedgerow cool clime Cabernet, this is still dark fruited – no thin weediness here, it’s actually quite dense and has black fruit. What drives everything though is the tannins – long, bitter, firm, smoky, foreboding, unsweetened tannins. So drying! I’m guessing this saw extended time on skins post-ferment to achieve such tannic length. Impressive. They’re not hard tannins though, they’re quite refreshing.
I won’t pretend this is a first growth Bordeaux. It’s not quite precise as the very best. But in context, in a Tasmanian context, heck in a whole southern hemisphere context, this is a brilliant, wonderfully tannic, special wine. Just don’t drink it now. I had it open for a day and it barely budged.
Score: 18.7/20 95/100
Would I buy it? The question should be – how much can I afford?