Mitchell Harris Sauvignon Blanc Fumé 2012 (Pyrenees, Vic)
13%, Screwcap, $22.95
A consistently good example of the fumé style and this looks particularly delicate in 2012. I served it too cold at first and found it rather too neutral and serious. A little air, a little warmth and out came the flavour.
Lemon zest. Lemon zest and milky oak/yeast dominates the nose with more fruit popping out as it warmed. That cream and lemon zest delicacy follows through to the palate too the yeast and oak richness adding bulk to the acid skeleton. It’s vital acid at that too, reinforcing the ‘dry, lean and just creamy’ style that, if anything, is more textural than varietal.
I’d like to see a little more fruit to catch up with the winemaking, but the style and freshness here is spot on.
Score: 17.5/20 91/100
Would I buy it? Not quite yet. Would need more bottle age methinks for me to be really wooed.
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