|Grosset Gaia 2010|
Grosset Gaia 2010 (Clare Valley, SA)
13.7%, Screwcap, $69
I spoke earlier about how these non-Riesling Grosset wines are for contemplation, not smashing, and this is perhaps the most pertinent example.
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc drawn from a windswept, isolated Clare Valley vineyard that sits at 570m above sea level, in one of the highest spots in the Clare. Planted in the early 80s exclusively to Cabernet Sauvignon an Cabernet Franc. I’ve not seen the Gaia vineyard, but those that have remark about its sense of ‘specialness’ and uncompromised, knife edge feel.
This, suitably, feels knife edge ripe too, dancing between leafy, blackcurrant, menthol and cedar Cabernet characters, with varietal definition favoured over fruit sweetness, topped off with a little regional mint chocolate. Early picked this is for sure and fresher and lively smelling for it. Beautiful.
The palate, too, has a high acid crunch, the tannins leafy, vibrant and oh-so-perfectly delineated, the fruit integrated, dry and blackcurranty (but not strictly fruity). In some ways that palate is too firm, too backward and too leafy to love now but the lines are very neatly drawn indeed. Superb. Best Gaia since ’06.
Score: 18.5/20 94/100
Would I buy it? Yes. And then put it in the cellar and forget about it for 5 years.