Alkoomi Jarrah Shiraz 2009 (Frankland River, WA)
14.1%, Screwcap, $45
Even despite their long history (40 years of grapegrowing in Frankland River, WA), I find myself often forgetting about Alkoomi. Perhaps it is the non-flashy style of the wines, perhaps it is the non-showy way the wines are sold. Regardless, the winery has a lower profile than it really deserves. Particularly with wines like this.
Produced off vines planted in 1971 (amongst the earliest in Frankland River), what makes this so attractive is the unabashed cool clime vibrancy, the wine carrying the spearmint and white pepper of ‘cool’ Shiraz with just enough ripe fruit to make it affable.
It all kicks off with spearmint and raspberry fruit, the nose minty, but not unripe. Borderline ripeness like that rater tickles my fancy if it is done well, and this tastes licoricey, brambly and really quite even, the acid high, yet not sharp, the whole package rhubarb and redcurrant fruity, whilst also slightly sour, savoury and refreshing. A nice balance, in other words.
Mid-weight and full of spicy goodness, this is really bloody good. Perhaps the best Shiraz I’ve seen under the label actually.
Big yes from me.
Score: 18/20 93/100
Would I buy it? With a few more years on it I’d certainly be tempted by a bottle on a list.
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