Mayhem Wines Hipster Riesling 2012 (Eden Valley, SA)
12.4%, Screwcap, $26
I like the Mayhem & Co labels. Attractive. Simple. Clever. The back labels presents all the important selling points too – no bullshit, just information. It does beg the question – what sells more wine on a back label ? Is it stories, or winemaking information or prettiness (if back labels even influence purchasing decisions at all)? Thoughts?
Anyways, this is a clever, if slightly uncompromising, Riesling. Uncompromising given that its made more like a $40 super Rizza than a sub $20 ‘fighting brand’. Think handpicked fruit (from the old Heathvale vineyard), whole bunch pressing, wild ferments, 2 months on lees… the kitchen sink.
It tastes rather uncompromising too – a dry, grapefruit and lemon pith driven Riesling with lots of phenolic grip and plenty of acidity, if not quite the approachability. There is a flirtation of sweet, sherbety fruit on the nose, but otherwise its just long and firm. It reminds me of a young Steingarten actually, just not as pretty.
No doubt this will make old bones – and mature in the cellar, rather than just get older – but it just feels a little too tight and withdrawn to be loveable. Hold. Needs 2 years at least before approaching again. Beyond that, the future is very promising indeed.
Would I buy it? Not now. Future though? Perhaps.