Torzi Matthews 1903 Vines Domenico Martino Shiraz 2012 (Barossa, SA)
14.2%, Screwcap, $35
I’ve got no shortage of time for Dom Torzi’s wines – invariably characterful, well priced and authentic.
This particular example comes from a vineyard planted in 1903 by early Barossa grapegrower Bill Hoffman, the vines and tended since the sixties by Domenico Martino. Dry grown and low yielding (1.2 tonnes to the acre) this vineyard is located on the ironstone, quartz and white sands of the Moppa Hills (they’re more like big mounds than hills. But still hills in a Barossa Valley context) in prime Shiraz country.
Happily such wonderful fruit is carefully handled in the winery too – wild ferments (using cultivated vineyard yeasts), largely old oak maturation, 40% whole bunches, basket pressing and no fining or filtration. It reads like a $75 wine in every way, yet you can buy it direct from the Torzi Matthews website for just $35 a bottle – a wonderful price given the context.
What a charming wine this is too – deep purple red in colour, the palate rich, faintly chocolatey, viscous yet not porty in any way. Sure it’s a little warm, but it never feels hot, just cosseting and decadent with black fruit aplenty. Driven by texture, the tannins are fine but not prominent and the overall appeal is simply about purity without excess.
A great example of a western Barossan Shiraz at a very palatable price. Go get some.